Château de Vincennes, Paris

About the Château de Vincennes

The Château de Vincennes stands on the eastern edge of Paris, in the town of Vincennes, beside the great Bois de Vincennes. Louis VII established the first royal residence here in 1178, drawn by the hunting. Louis IX, Saint Louis, came especially often.

In the 14th century Kings John II and Charles V turned the hunting lodge into a mighty fortress with a huge keep and high walls, a secure residence close to the capital. Later, under Louis XIV, the architect Louis Le Vau built the classical King's and Queen's Pavilions in the courtyard. Today it is one of the finest examples of medieval architecture in France.

What to see

• The keep — a 50-metre 14th-century tower.
• Charles V's rooms — a blue vault with golden fleurs-de-lis.
• The Sainte-Chapelle of Vincennes — a Gothic chapel with stained glass.
• The curtain wall — walls, towers and moat.
• The King's and Queen's Pavilions — Louis Le Vau's classicism.
• The Bois de Vincennes — lakes, boats and avenues nearby.

The keep

The heart of the castle is the keep, completed in 1369–1370. At 50 metres, it is the tallest medieval tower of its type in Europe. Round turrets of the same height stand at its corners, and walls several metres thick are bound with over 2.5 kilometres of iron ties, one of the first known examples of reinforced masonry.

Inside are eight floors of large vaulted rooms resting on central columns. The king's council met on the first floor, and the second held Charles V's rooms, where a vault painted with golden fleurs-de-lis and coats of arms on blue survives, along with oak panelling cut in 1367–1371. Climbing the spiral stairs and looking out over the forest and Paris is an experience in itself.

The Sainte-Chapelle of Vincennes

In the courtyard stands the royal chapel, the Sainte-Chapelle of Vincennes, modelled on the famous Sainte-Chapelle on the Île de la Cité but on a single level. Charles V began it in 1379, and it was only finished in 1552 under Henry II, who added the woodwork and superb stained glass.

Its Gothic façade of delicate stone tracery and tall windows of Renaissance glass make it one of the most beautiful chapels in France. In the 19th century it was restored by Eugène Viollet-le-Duc, known for his work on Notre-Dame.

The walls and courtyard

A rectangular curtain wall of 330 by 175 metres, more than a kilometre round, surrounds the castle, lined with towers and gates, with a deep stone-lined moat outside. The towers once stood as tall as the keep, but in the 19th century they were cut down to the height of the walls.

Inside is a spacious courtyard: on one side the keep rises behind its own wall with watch turrets, on the other stand the classical 17th-century King's and Queen's Pavilions. Together they show how a medieval fortress gradually became a palace.

The Bois de Vincennes

South and east of the castle begins the Bois de Vincennes, the largest park in Paris. Napoleon III created it on the model of the Bois de Boulogne and handed it to the city in 1860. It has lakes with rowing boats, the Parc Floral, a botanical garden, cycle paths and a zoo.

After the castle, stroll to Lac Daumesnil or Lac des Minimes, hire a boat or picnic on the grass. It makes a good half-day with children when you want a break from city museums.

Tips for your visit

Allow an hour and a half to two hours for the castle: the keep climb, the chapel and a walk round the courtyard. With time to spare, head into the Bois de Vincennes; Lac Daumesnil is about 20 minutes' walk.

The castle suits children well: the tall tower, moat and thick walls look like a real knight's fortress. Wear comfortable shoes, as the keep stairs are steep.

It's one of the easiest trips beyond the centre: the same metro line that serves the Louvre and the Champs-Élysées brings you right to the gates.

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How to do it right

• Metro 1 to the gates.
• The keep in the morning.
• Shoes for the stairs.
• Then the forest.

Questions