Zedazeni Monastery, Mtskheta

What is Zedazeni Monastery?

It’s one of Georgia’s earliest monasteries, founded in the 540s by St John of Zedazeni, leader of the Thirteen Assyrian Fathers — Syrian monks who came to preach in eastern Georgia. It sits on the summit of Mount Zedazeni in the Saguramo Ridge, on the left bank of the Aragvi, and is a working monastery again, home to a small community of monks.

The main church is the late-8th-century basilica of St John the Baptist, built under Catholicos Clement around an older little hall church that holds the founder’s sarcophagus. Around it are a defensive wall, monks’ cells, a brick belfry and a huge metal cross on the ridge that, on a clear day, you can spot from central Tbilisi.

Legend says the summit once held a shrine to Zaden, a pagan fertility god — hence the name. From here John sent his disciples across the country; one of them, Shio, founded the cave monastery of Shio-Mgvime in a gorge nearby.

Is Zedazeni Monastery worth visiting?

Yes, if you have a car or don’t mind paying a taxi to wait. It’s the quietest and most mountain-like of the monasteries around Mtskheta: forest, wind and a view straight down the Aragvi valley, without the crowds you’ll meet at Jvari and Svetitskhoveli.

Skip it if you have half a day in Mtskheta and no wheels. The round trip up and down takes about an hour and a half, and the church itself is plain and dark inside. Go to Jvari and Samtavro instead — Jvari’s view is just as good and far easier to reach. In winter or after heavy rain, don’t attempt it without a 4x4.

Entrance fee, opening hours and paying

Zedazeni is free — there’s no ticket or ticket office. The monastery publishes no official timetable; unofficial tour-operator information says the gate is open daily from about 9:00 to 18:00, with access to the church limited during the liturgy. Come in daylight and leave at least an hour before sunset — the forest road has no lights.

You only need money for candles or a donation, so carry a few lari in cash; don’t count on an ATM up the mountain. Foreign Visa and Mastercard cards work across Georgia, and Bolt or Yandex Go can charge the card linked in the app, but a driver you hire on the street will usually want cash.

What to see at Zedazeni

• The basilica of St John the Baptist, late 8th century — a squat square church of river stone and brick with a tall, narrow central nave. It’s dim and quiet inside, with only fragments of painting left.
• St John of Zedazeni’s tomb in the north aisle — the founder’s stone sarcophagus, partly reaching into the sanctuary.
• The stone water basin in the north aisle. Tradition says it only fills with water on the Zedaznoba feast day, when pilgrims come up the mountain.
• The octagonal brick belfry above the south porch, added in the 18th century.
• The defensive wall and monks’ cells — the monastery doubled as a refuge in wartime.
• The view: the Aragvi valley, Jvari Monastery on the next spur, the Tbilisi Sea and, on a clear day, Tbilisi itself.
• The giant iron cross hung with icons on the ridge, right by the monastery.

A short history

John and his disciples settled on the mountain in the 6th century, on the site of a pagan shrine. The Assyrian Fathers spread out from here to preach, and John was buried in the monastery. In the 11th century Abbot Michael commissioned one of the versions of his Life.

Catholicos Clement built the present basilica at the end of the 8th century. After Shah Abbas invaded in the 17th century the monastery stood empty; the belfry and cells were added in the 18th. In the late 19th century Archimandrite Alexander Okropiridze restored the church and brought monks back, but the community didn’t last.

The church was restored in the Soviet period, most recently in 1970–1971. Today monks live here again, and the access road, car park and footpath were rebuilt in 2018–2019.

Zedazeni vs Jvari vs Shio-Mgvime

Only time for one? Go to Jvari. Zedazeni is for forest, silence and a view from above — and for people with a car.

Mtskheta’s churches and monasteries compared

Every church and monastery in Mtskheta rated by YesGo. Tap a column heading to sort.

How to do it right

• Pick a clear day: in haze you won’t see Tbilisi or Jvari, and the view is half the point.
• Pair it with Jvari — both are on the left bank of the Aragvi, one car, a couple of hours.
• It’s cooler and windier up top than in Mtskheta, even in summer — bring a light jacket.
• Like hiking? Walk up from Saguramo through the forest and take a taxi down.
• On Zedaznoba, 20 May, the road fills with pilgrims’ cars — choose another day for a quiet visit.
• Don’t photograph the monks without asking, and never during a service.

Questions