Arcades always open; shops roughly 9:00–19:00 on weekdays and 9:00–18:00 at weekends, each with its own hours
Time on siteiA typical visit without queueing. In high season add 15–30 minutes.
40 min
With kids
Fine with kids
Shop hours
Roughly weekdays 9:00–19:00, weekends 9:00–18:00; each shop sets its ownverifyingiFrom reliable travel sources; we are still checking it against an official one. Double-check before you go.
Closed
No common day offverifyingiFrom reliable travel sources; we are still checking it against an official one. Double-check before you go.
Address
Ulitsa Krasnye Ryady, just south of Susanin Square, KostromaverifyingiFrom reliable travel sources; we are still checking it against an official one. Double-check before you go.
Susaninskaya Ploshchad — central buses and trolleybuses, including Nos. 2 and 3verifyingiFrom reliable travel sources; we are still checking it against an official one. Double-check before you go.
Payment
Foreign Visa and Mastercard cards do not work in Russia — bring roubles in cashverifyingiFrom reliable travel sources; we are still checking it against an official one. Double-check before you go.
Provincial Kostroma museum
In the Small Rows: 200 ₽, concessions 150 ₽, daily 11:00–18:00verifyingiFrom reliable travel sources; we are still checking it against an official one. Double-check before you go.
Time needed
40–60 minutes; about two hours with the museum and lunch
Key facts
1775stone building began, two years after the fire of 17733 sourcesiRussian WikipediaEnglish WikipediaTonkosti
Freeto walk around — it is a working market and shopping quarter2 sourcesiTonkostiAdvantour
110 × 160 mthe Red Rows, the main block with an inner courtyard2 sourcesiRussian WikipediaTonkosti
122 × 163 mthe Big Flour Rows, home of today's central market2 sourcesiRussian WikipediaTonkosti
1766the stone Church of the Saviour, built into the Red Rows2 sourcesiRussian WikipediaEnglish Wikipedia
Karl von Klaerdrew the original model design3 sourcesiRussian WikipediaEnglish WikipediaTonkosti
Stepan Vorotilovlocal master builder of the Red Rows and the gate bell tower3 sourcesiRussian WikipediaTonkostiEnglish Wikipedia
10+rows: Red, Flour, Small Goods, Gingerbread, Bread, Fish, Kvass, Butter, Tobacco and more3 sourcesiRussian WikipediaAdvantourEnglish Wikipedia
Rounded cornersso horse carts could turn without scraping the walls3 sourcesiRussian WikipediaTonkostiAdvantour
Federalprotected cultural heritage site2 sourcesiRussian WikipediaWikidata Q4461032
What are the Kostroma Trading Rows?
They are Kostroma's old merchant quarter: a cluster of long Neoclassical blocks lined with arcades, each arch once a separate shop. The rows fill several blocks between Susanin Square and the Volga, on the site of the old Kostroma kremlin. Locals call them simply “the rows” or the Red Rows, and English sources often use the name Gostiny Dvor.
Unlike many restored arcades in Russia, this one never stopped trading. Downstairs you still buy cheese, linen and groceries; the upper floors and cellars were built as storerooms. It is one of the most complete surviving sets of provincial trading rows in Russia and a federally protected monument.
History of the Trading Rows
Wooden stalls stood here until the great fire of 1773 wiped them out. Kostroma was then replanned with streets fanning out from the square, and in 1775 stone rows began to go up to a standard design by provincial official Karl von Klaer. The unit was a merchant's shop one arch wide.
From 1789 the Red Rows were built by local master Stepan Vorotilov. He wrapped the arcade around the existing stone Church of the Saviour of 1766 and added a new Baroque bell tower over the gate on the Volga side. Klaer disliked the changes and took him to court, but Vorotilov died before the case was heard — the tower is still there.
“Red” meant fine goods: cloth, furs, haberdashery and books. The Flour Rows dealt in flour, fodder and flax. More rows followed over the next decades — gingerbread, fish, kvass, butter, tobacco — until the quarter reached the river.
What to buy and see
Kostroma cheese — the region calls itself Russia's cheese capital, and stalls in the rows sell local cheeses. Ask to taste first.
Linen — tablecloths, towels and clothes made from Kostroma flax in the shops of the Red Rows.
The central market in the Big Flour Rows — dairy, honey, mushrooms and berries in season, mostly local.
Church of the Saviour in the Rows — a five-domed church in the courtyard of the Red Rows, with its tall bell tower over the gate. It is a working church.
The Small Goods Rows in the courtyard — single-storey shops, including the small Provincial Kostroma museum with hundreds of troika bells.
Jewellery shops — the Kostroma region is known for the silver and gold craft of Krasnoye-on-Volga.
The lower rows by the river — Gingerbread, Fish and Kvass Rows, a few minutes from the Volga embankment.
Opening hours and prices
There is no ticket: the rows are public streets and shops. The only paid stop is the Provincial Kostroma museum in the Small Goods Rows — 200 ₽, 150 ₽ concessions, under-7s free, open daily 11:00–18:00 according to one travel guide.
There are no single opening hours either. As a guide, shops trade 9:00–19:00 on weekdays and 9:00–18:00 at weekends, with no common day off, but each sets its own hours and some close earlier in winter. The arcades themselves are open around the clock.
Payment: foreign Visa and Mastercard cards have not worked in Russia since March 2022. Market stalls and small shops want roubles in cash or a Russian bank card, so bring cash.
Take any bus, trolleybus or minibus to the Susaninskaya Ploshchad (Susanin Square) stop — about 15 minutes from the railway station or the bus station.
Find the Fire Tower, the landmark of the square, and face south towards the Volga.
Cross the square: the arches straight ahead are the Red Rows, 2–3 minutes on foot.
Walk through the gate into the courtyard for the Church of the Saviour and the Small Goods Rows.
For the market, go round the Red Rows to the Big Flour Rows next door. Carry on downhill for the lower rows and the Volga embankment.
Is it worth visiting?
Yes, if you are in central Kostroma anyway. It is free, two minutes from the square, and the curving white arcades are the defining picture of the city. Half an hour under the arches with a slice of local cheese is time well spent.
Don't come for serious shopping, though: most shops sell everyday goods and souvenirs, and the market is a local one. With a single day in town, put the Ipatiev Monastery first and walk through the rows on your way from the square to the river.
Before you go: checklist
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All three are within five minutes of each other. The rows are free and suit everyone; add a paid sight to match your interests.
From the square down to the Volga
Susanin Square, the Guardhouse, the Trading Rows and the Snow Maiden's house — a short half-day walk. Add it in one tap and YesGo fits in the timing and walks.
Tonkosti: Trading Rows in Kostroma; Red Rows and the Church of the Saviour; Provincial Kostroma museum
Advantour: Trading Rows, Kostroma
Kostroma Region Department of Economic Development: 2026 market plan (central market in the Big Flour Rows)
YesGo editorial team · facts checked 30.10.2026 · How we checkediDates, designers, block sizes and heritage status are checked against at least two sources: Russian and English Wikipedia, Tonkosti, Advantour and Wikidata. The rows have no official website or common opening hours, so shop hours come from the Tonkosti guide and are marked as unverified, as are the museum prices and hours (one source). Sources give different trolleybus numbers, so the stop row is unverified too. The church appears under three names — Saviour in the Rows, All-Merciful Saviour, Saviour Not Made by Hands — all the same building. Sources disagree on how long building took (“almost five decades”, “over a century”), so we give no end date.