Montserrat mountain and monastery, Barcelona

About Montserrat

The name means 'serrated mountain': its peaks look like giant saw teeth or stacked stone fingers. Cliffs of pink conglomerate rise almost sheer above the Llobregat valley, and on a clear day you can see them from Barcelona.

On the slope, at around 700 metres, stands the Benedictine abbey of Santa Maria de Montserrat, founded in the 11th century. Its treasure is the statue of the Black Madonna, affectionately called La Moreneta, 'the little dark one'. She is Catalonia's patron, and pilgrims come from all over Spain.

What to see at the monastery

At the centre is the basilica, with a dark, gilded interior. To see La Moreneta up close, take the separate staircase behind the altar, where you can touch the statue. The queue can be long at weekends and holidays, so arrive early.

The Escolania, one of Europe's oldest boys' choirs, sings in the basilica, usually a short performance on weekday afternoons; times change, so check the monastery's site. Nearby, the Museum of Montserrat has a surprisingly strong collection: El Greco, Caravaggio, Monet, Picasso and Dalí.

What to see on Montserrat

• The basilica — a gilded interior and mosaics.
• The Black Madonna — Catalonia's shrine behind the altar.
• The Escolania — the boys' choir in the basilica.
• Museum of Montserrat — from El Greco to Dalí.
• Sant Joan funicular — up to the trails above the abbey.
• Santa Cova — a cliffside chapel on a scenic path.

Trails and viewpoints

Hiking trails wind between the rocks above the monastery. The Sant Joan funicular climbs higher in a few minutes, from where you can walk to viewpoints or on to the Sant Jeroni summit, 1.5 to 2 hours each way. A second funicular drops to the path to Santa Cova, the cave where legend says the statue was found.

The trails are well marked but steep in places, so wear proper shoes and carry water. From the top you can see the Pyrenees to the north and the Catalan plains to the sea, while the rocks themselves look like a fantasy city of stone. Spring brings flowers, and autumn air is especially clear.

Tips for your trip

Leave Barcelona early to reach the monastery before the coach tours and hit the trails before the midday heat. It's cooler on the mountain than in the city and the weather changes fast, so bring a jumper. If you want to hear the choir, plan around its schedule.

The monastery has a café, a restaurant and a market where local farmers sell honey, cheese and fig sweets; try mató, a fresh curd cheese with honey. The cable car has the best views, while the rack railway is easier with children and pushchairs. Plan your return before the last trains.

How to do it right

• Leave early in the morning.
• Combined tickets at Plaça d'Espanya station.
• Bring a jumper: it's cooler up there.
• Try mató with honey.

Questions