The Albaicín, Granada

About the Albaicín

The Albaicín is a quarter on the hill north of the Darro river, directly opposite the Alhambra. People lived here in ancient times, and under the Nasrids, in the 13th to 15th centuries, it was a crowded town of mosques, baths and markets. Its layout of crooked lanes, dead ends and small squares has barely changed since.

Today it's a residential quarter of white houses, tiled roofs and cármenes, mansions with gardens behind high walls where vines, cypresses and flowers grow. In 1994 the Albaicín was added to the UNESCO list as an extension of the Alhambra site. You can wander it for free at any time.

What to see in the Albaicín

• Mirador de San Nicolás — the view of the Alhambra and mountains.
• Carrera del Darro — a riverside street with little bridges.
• El Bañuelo — 11th-century Arab baths.
• Paseo de los Tristes — a promenade below the Alhambra walls.
• Calle Calderería — tea houses and lantern shops.
• Plaza Larga — a square with a market and cafés.

The Mirador de San Nicolás

The Mirador de San Nicolás is Granada's most famous viewpoint, by the church of St Nicholas at the top of the quarter. From here you see the whole Alhambra: red walls and towers on the hill, green woods below and, beyond the fortress, the snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada. At sunset, as the walls glow red, the square fills up and street musicians play guitar.

Arrive half an hour before sunset to get a spot at the railing. If San Nicolás is too crowded, walk a little higher to the viewpoint by the San Cristóbal convent or to San Miguel Alto, which has an even wider city panorama.

The riverside streets and El Bañuelo

At the foot of the quarter, Carrera del Darro runs along the river and is one of the loveliest streets in Spain. Old houses and churches line one side, the river with its stone bridges the other, and the Alhambra walls rise above. It leads to the Paseo de los Tristes, a cosy spot for dinner on a terrace facing the floodlit fortress.

On Carrera del Darro stand the El Bañuelo baths from the 11th century, among the oldest surviving Arab baths in Spain. Inside are vaulted halls pierced with star-shaped skylights. Entry is small and inexpensive, and a visit takes about 20 minutes.

Tips for your walk

It's easy to get lost in the Albaicín, and that's part of the fun: lanes twist, fork and suddenly open onto squares with views. Don't be afraid to turn off the main path; if you're lost, head downhill and you'll reach the river. Comfortable shoes are a must, as the cobbles are steep and slippery.

Around Calle Calderería you'll find Moorish-style tea houses serving mint tea and sweets, and shops selling lanterns, rugs and ceramics. Some restaurants have rooftop terraces with Alhambra views, especially lovely in the evening.

In the evening the lanes are quiet and empty. Keep your belongings close and don't leave bags unattended at the crowded viewpoints at sunset.

Places in Granada: compare and choose

Places in Granada rated by YesGo. Click a column header to sort.

Nearby and on the way

40

Sacromonte

Granada, Spain

2 h · Free; shows paid · 9 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Sacromonte

44

Palace of Charles V

Granada, Spain

45 min · Courtyard free, museums paid · 16 min walk

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60

Alhambra

Granada, Spain

3 h · Paid · 19 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Alhambra

39

Generalife

Granada, Spain

1 h · On the Alhambra ticket · 22 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Generalife

How to do it right

• Ride C31 or C32 up the hill.
• Sunset at San Nicolás.
• Walk down the lanes to the river.
• Wear comfortable shoes.

Questions