Valldemossa
Palma de Mallorca, Spain
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The Cathedral of Santa Maria in Palma is a Gothic church right on the seashore, built against the old city walls, with the Royal Palace of La Almudaina and the Bishop's Palace beside it. Construction began in the 13th century and continued into the 17th, and today La Seu is Palma's most visited sight.
Its scale is staggering: the central nave rises 44 metres, one of the tallest in the world. Outside, rows of tall buttresses hold the building up, and from the sea side the cathedral is reflected in the lake of Parc de la Mar, Palma's most famous view.
The great wonder inside is the light. Above the altar glows a huge rose window, nearly 14 metres across, the second largest of all surviving Gothic roses. On sunny days coloured light spills over the columns and floor, and on certain mornings the rose is projected onto the opposite wall.
Slender octagonal columns soar to the vaults, making the space feel light despite its size. There's none of the usual crowding: a broad nave, spacious side chapels and soft coloured light create a sense of openness.
In the early 20th century the bishop invited Antoni Gaudí to renew the interior. He moved the choir to open up the nave, added lighting and created an unusual canopy over the high altar, a suspended structure of lamps and figures. Gaudí's work here was left unfinished but changed the cathedral's look markedly.
In the 21st century Mallorcan artist Miquel Barceló transformed St Peter's Chapel, covering the walls in a ceramic relief of fish, loaves and waves. It's a bold modern contrast to the Gothic that some visitors adore and others still debate.
Step-by-step directions are below; the map shows where you arrive.
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Cover shoulders and knees. Tourists enter through a side portal, and visits are limited on Sundays and during services. An hour is enough, more if you take the rooftop tour.
Be sure to see the cathedral from outside: the best view is from the sea side, by the Parc de la Mar lake where it's mirrored in the water. In the evening it's beautifully floodlit, and a stroll along the seafront below its walls is one of Palma's nicest.
Next door stands the Royal Palace of La Almudaina, and behind the cathedral begin the old town lanes with patios and cafés, all easy to explore in half a day.
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You are ready for the visit
Entry is paid; booking online is easiest.
About an hour.
Yes, he reworked the interior in the early 20th century and made the altar canopy.
Rooftop tours run in season on separate tickets.
Yes, shoulders and knees must be covered.
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Palma de Mallorca, Spain
Palma de Mallorca, Spain
Palma de Mallorca, Spain
Palma de Mallorca, Spain
Palma de Mallorca, Spain
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