Wat Umong — the forest temple with tunnels, Chiang Mai

What is Wat Umong?

Wat Umong is a forest Buddhist monastery at the foot of Doi Suthep mountain, 1 km south of Chiang Mai University. It's about 700 years old: King Mangrai founded it for monks invited from Sri Lanka and named it the 'temple of the eleven bamboo clumps'. Under King Kue Na (1355–1385) it was restored and tunnels were dug beneath the stupa in all four directions — hence the name 'Umong', meaning tunnel.

In 1949 the Suan Phutthatham meditation centre opened here, modelled on the famous Suan Mokkh monastery. Today it's one of Chiang Mai's quietest places: the monks live among the trees, and visitors stroll the shady paths.

What to see

• The brick tunnels beneath the stupa — niches with Buddha images and traces of old murals.
• The stupa on the mound above the tunnels.
• The 'talking trees' — proverbs on signs along the paths.
• The pond with fish, turtles and ducks — you can feed them.
• A field of broken sculptures and a fasting Buddha statue.
• The library-museum with books on Buddhism and art objects.

Entry, hours and rules

Entry is free, with donation boxes around the grounds. According to guides it's open by day, roughly 6:00 to 18:00; there's no official website. It's a working monastery and meditation centre, so it's quiet.

Cover shoulders and knees and take your shoes off before entering the tunnels and halls. The tunnels are dark and cool — use your phone torch. Keep noise down near meditators.

How long do you need?

Allow about an hour for the tunnels, the stupa and a forest walk. A handy plan: Doi Suthep in the morning, Wat Umong on the way back, then the Old City temples.

It's a good break from heat and crowds: shade, silence and a pond — a rare combination in a big city.

Is Wat Umong worth visiting?

Yes: the 14th-century tunnels and forest calm make Wat Umong one of Chiang Mai's most unusual temples — and it's free.

The YesGo take: the tunnels are small and the murals have nearly faded. For architecture, Wat Chedi Luang is better; for atmosphere and quiet, come here. In the rainy season the woods are full of mosquitoes.

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How to do it right

• Shoot in the tunnels without flash — the niches show up well.
• The best shot is the tunnel entrance from the platform.
• Fish and turtle food is sold by the pond.
• Read the proverbs on the 'talking trees'.
• On the way: Doi Suthep up the mountain.

Questions