Yalıkavak, Bodrum

Yalıkavak Marina: what it is and is it worth it

Yalıkavak Marina — still called Palmarina in older guides — is one of Bodrum’s three big marinas, alongside Milta in town and Turgutreis. Turkish architect Emre Arolat designed the complex, which won the shopping category at the World Architecture Festival in 2014. Both English Wikipedia and The Yacht Harbour Association (TYHA) put it at around 620 berths; for the longest yacht it can take, Wikipedia says 135 metres and TYHA says 140.

For visitors it is mainly a promenade along the pontoons: palms, superyachts moored right beside the path, terrace restaurants and designer boutiques. There’s no ticket and no gate. Is it worth it? Yes, if you want to see some of the biggest yachts in the Aegean and eat by the water. If you came for ancient history, spend the time on the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus and the castle instead.

Things to do in Yalıkavak

• Walk the marina promenade — superyachts right by the path, best in the evening when the lights come on.
• Climb to the old windmills above the village for a view over the bay; a restored windmill on the Bodrum road now houses a restaurant.
• The old fishing centre around Merkez Camii mosque at the east end of the waterfront — tea gardens, boats and simple cafés.
• Browse the market — Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday, a couple of blocks from the marina.
• Watch the sunset: the bay faces west, so the sun drops straight into the sea.
• Hike to Sandima, an abandoned village about 45 minutes uphill on a track, according to Wikivoyage.

What is Yalıkavak?

Yalıkavak is a former sponge-diving village, now officially a neighbourhood (mahalle) of Bodrum, set in its own bay on the north-west of the peninsula. Hills rise behind it, and old windmills stand above the road into the village.

Sponge diving kept the place going well into the 20th century, until the trade died out. In the summer of 1982 a Yalıkavak sponge diver, Mehmet Çakır, spotted “metal biscuits with ears” on the seabed off Kaş — the find that led to the Uluburun wreck, one of the oldest shipwrecks ever discovered. Its cargo is now displayed in Bodrum Castle.

These days the old harbour, the mosque and the tea gardens sit right next to pontoons full of superyachts. It isn’t a museum or a big beach resort — it’s somewhere to stroll, eat by the water and watch the sea.

Shopping and restaurants

Shopping here comes in two very different flavours. The marina has international designer boutiques and jewellers — great for window shopping, pricey for buying. Its restaurants are firmly at the top end too.

For everyday things, head into the village: small shops, the Şok and A101 supermarkets, and souvenirs such as knitwear, kilims and little windmill figurines. The liveliest shopping is the Thursday market with clothes, fabrics and household bits.

Opening hours of shops and exchange offices change with the season: in summer many stay open late, in winter some restaurants and boutiques close. Check the place you want before you go.

Is there a beach in Yalıkavak?

Not one big one. Wikivoyage says frankly that no beach here stands out — but there are small sandy coves with very clear water around the bay, many with restaurants and beach clubs.

This side of the peninsula faces the open sea and the wind: it’s noticeably breezier than Bodrum town — there’s a reason the hills are dotted with windmills. With small children, pick a sheltered cove and go in the calmer morning hours.

When to visit Yalıkavak

The best time is May to October, when the beach clubs and marina restaurants are open and the buses run their full schedule. July and August are hot and busy, with the waterfront at its liveliest after dark.

Spring and autumn are quieter and better for walking up to the windmills. In winter the village goes quiet and some places close, but the marina and the markets carry on all year. It’s windier than Bodrum town, so bring a light layer for the evening.

Yalıkavak vs Gümüşlük (and Bodrum Old Town)

Come to Yalıkavak for the yachts, the marina and the market. For a quiet sunset dinner pick Gümüşlük; for history, the old town. Yalıkavak and Gümüşlük pair easily in one day.

How to do it right

• Pair Yalıkavak with Gümüşlük: the marina and market by day, sunset dinner in the next bay over.
• Hit the market early, before the heat — Thursday’s is the biggest.
• Eat lunch in the village and save the marina for the evening, when the yachts light up.
• Walk up to the windmills on the hill for the view over the whole bay.
• Staying for dinner? Check the last bus or budget for a taxi back.
• For history, head to Bodrum Old Town and the castle — Yalıkavak is about the sea and the stroll.

Questions