Saint-Émilion
Bordeaux, France
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The Dune du Pilat is Europe's tallest dune. It stands at the southern mouth of Arcachon Bay at Pyla-sur-Mer, 60 kilometres south-west of Bordeaux. Its size is staggering: about 2.7 kilometres long, 500 metres wide and around 107 metres high, holding some 60 million cubic metres of sand.
The dune isn't standing still: the ocean wind drives the sand inland by about 5 metres a year, so it slowly advances on the pine forest. The name only appeared in the 1930s, from the Gascon word 'pilhar', 'heap, mound'; before that the place was called 'the New Sands'.
From the car park a path leads through the woods, then the sand begins. In season a staircase of around 150 steps goes up; without it you climb straight up the slope, which is tiring, as the sand slides away underfoot.
At the top is one of France's most striking panoramas: to the west the Atlantic Ocean with turquoise shallows and the Banc d'Arguin sandbank, to the north the mouth of Arcachon Bay and the Cap Ferret peninsula, and to the east the dark green sea of Landes pine forest.
The dune is part of the landscape of Arcachon Bay, famous for its oysters, pine forests and quiet beaches. From the crest you can watch the tides reshape the sandbanks, with boats criss-crossing the bay.
Traces of ancient people have been found beneath the dune: temporary camps of salt-makers and an Iron Age urn from around 800 BC. Today it's a protected natural site and, in summer, one of the most visited places on France's Atlantic coast.
With its steep slope above the sea and steady wind, the dune has become one of France's best paragliding spots. In good weather dozens of colourful wings circle above it, and local clubs offer tandem flights with an instructor.
The loveliest time is sunset: the sun drops straight into the ocean, the sand turns gold and pink, and the crowds thin out by evening. Bring a torch if you stay after dark, as the path back to the car park runs through the forest.
Step-by-step directions are below; the map shows where you arrive.
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We’ll draw it on the map on foot and by taxi; metro and buses open in your maps app. Your location isn’t stored.
Allow an hour and a half to two hours for the dune, half a day with the beach. Come in the morning or towards evening: midday in summer is hot and crowded, and the car park fills up.
The dune pairs well with Arcachon: oysters on the seafront in the morning, the beach at midday, and the dune climb for sunset.
Take your shoes off, as sand is easier barefoot, though it gets very hot in summer. You can't get a pushchair up the dune, so carry small children.
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By train to Arcachon and a bus, or about an hour by car.
About 107 metres, the tallest dune in Europe.
Entry is free; parking is charged.
It's dangerous: strong currents and no lifeguards.
An hour and a half to two hours, half a day with the beach.
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