Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux

About Saint-Émilion

Saint-Émilion is a medieval town on a limestone hill amid vineyards, on the right bank of the Dordogne east of Bordeaux. The Romans planted vines here in the 2nd century, and in the 4th the poet Ausonius praised the wine. The town is named after the Breton monk Émilion, who settled in a rock cave in the 8th century; the monks who followed him began making wine to sell.

Saint-Émilion lay on the Way of St James, so monasteries and churches were built, and in 1199 the town received its rights. In 1999 the town and surrounding vineyards were added to the UNESCO list as an example of centuries of winemaking culture. Vines cover more than two-thirds of the commune.

What to see

• The monolithic church — an 11th-century church carved from rock.
• The King's Tower — a 1237 keep with a vineyard view.
• Steep lanes — cobbled slopes between stone houses.
• The Cordeliers cloister — ruins and sparkling wine.
• Wine cellars — Merlot and Cabernet Franc tastings.
• Macaroon shops — almond biscuits to an old recipe.

The underground church

Saint-Émilion's great wonder is the monolithic church of the late 11th to early 12th century, carved entirely out of a limestone cliff. It's one of Europe's largest underground churches: some 15,000 cubic metres of rock were removed to make it. The main hall, 38 metres long and 20 wide, is divided into three naves by massive stone pillars.

Its walls were once painted; today only fragments of frescoes and carved lions, serpents, centaurs and cherubim remain. It was probably made to honour the relics of Saint Émilion. You can only go inside on a tour from the tourist office, which also shows the catacombs and the monk's hermitage.

Saint-Émilion wine

Saint-Émilion is one of Bordeaux's leading red-wine areas. Here on the Right Bank the wines are based on Merlot and Cabernet Franc, unlike the Left Bank Médoc with its Cabernet Sauvignon. The local wine classification dates from 1955 and is revised every few years.

The Jurade brotherhood was founded by King John of England in 1199 and revived in 1948; today 140 jurats in red robes promote Saint-Émilion wine around the world. The town has dozens of wine shops, and nearby châteaux offer tours and tastings by appointment.

The town and its macaroons

Saint-Émilion is built on a slope, so its streets are steep cobbled ramps the locals call tertres. The King's Tower, a 1237 keep about 15 metres high, looks out over tiled roofs, the bell tower and the sea of vineyards around.

Be sure to try Saint-Émilion macaroons: a simple biscuit of ground almonds, sugar and egg whites, baked here since 1620 to the Ursuline nuns' recipe. They're nothing like the colourful Parisian macarons.

Tips for your visit

Allow half a day for Saint-Émilion, a full day with a château tasting. The streets are very steep and slippery after rain, so wear good shoes; it's hard going with a pushchair. Trains are infrequent, so check the return times.

Saint-Émilion combines easily with a day in Bordeaux on the riverfront and squares. Many châteaux receive visitors by appointment only, so book visits in advance.

When tasting, remember the drive back: if you're driving, take a guided tour or go by train.

How to do it right

• Underground church by tour.
• Shoes for steep streets.
• Local macaroons.
• Châteaux by appointment.

Questions