Lugdunum
Lyon, France
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The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière crowns Fourvière hill above Vieux-Lyon and the Saône and Rhône rivers. It's visible from almost anywhere in the city and has long been its symbol. The Romans settled the hill first: the forum of Roman Lugdunum stood here, and the name 'Fourvière' comes from the Latin forum vetus, 'old forum'.
A shrine to the Virgin has stood on the hill since 1170, and the present basilica was built with private donations in 1872–1896 to designs by the architect Pierre Bossan. The old chapel survives beside it, its bell tower crowned by a gilded statue of the Virgin. Around two million people visit each year.
Bossan combined Romanesque and Byzantine styles, an unusual choice at a time when Gothic was the norm. Fourvière is two churches, one above the other. The upper one dazzles: walls and vaults covered in mosaics on gold, stained glass casting coloured light across the marble. The lower, the crypt of Saint Joseph, is much simpler and quieter.
The interior decoration took almost a century to finish, until 1964. Look out for the mosaic panels along the sides of the nave and the carved marble details. A well-known boys' choir sings here, made famous by the film Les Choristes.
Locals have a joking nickname for the basilica: the 'upside-down elephant', as the bulky body resembles an elephant and the four towers its legs in the air. Look at it from the Saône quays below and you'll see why.
Every year on 8 December the people of Lyon put candles on their windowsills in honour of the Virgin, the origin of the famous Festival of Lights. Today it lasts several days, with light shows on the basilica and buildings across the city drawing visitors from all over Europe.
A few minutes' walk from the basilica, on the same hillside, are the Roman theatres of ancient Lugdunum: a large open-air theatre that hosts the Nuits de Fourvière festival concerts in summer, and a smaller odeon. A museum of Gallo-Roman history stands beside them.
From the hill it's easy to walk down through the Rosary garden or the stairways straight into Vieux-Lyon, to Saint-Jean Cathedral and the lanes with their traboules.
The basilica has a Museum of Sacred Art: its rooms hold vestments, church plate, paintings and models showing how the church was built. You can learn about the craftsmen behind the mosaics and how the stone was hauled up the hill.
From time to time, tours of the roofs and towers open to visitors, with an even wider view of Lyon than from the viewpoint. They run in small groups, so check the schedule on the basilica's website in advance.
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An hour covers the basilica and viewpoint. Ride up by funicular and walk down past the Roman theatres and gardens into Vieux-Lyon.
The basilica pairs naturally with Vieux-Lyon, right below the hill, and an evening stroll along the Saône, where the basilica is beautifully lit.
Dress modestly and don't take photos during services. A level path leads from the funicular to the basilica, easy with a pushchair.
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Lyon, France
Lyon, France
Lyon, France
Lyon, France
By funicular from Vieux-Lyon in 2–3 minutes, or on foot.
Entry is free; the towers and museum need a ticket.
About an hour including the viewpoint.
From the viewpoint behind Fourvière Basilica.
In early December, with 8 December the main day.
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