Pérouges, the medieval village, Lyon

About Pérouges

Pérouges is a medieval town on a hill above the plain of the River Ain, on the old trade road between Lyon and Geneva. It was home to craftsmen, farmers and linen weavers. As early as 1236 the townspeople won communal liberties, and weaving flourished until the end of the 18th century.

In the 19th century new roads and the railway bypassed it, and the population fell from 1,500 to 90; the town all but emptied. From 1911 it was rescued and restored, and today Pérouges is one of France's most intact medieval towns, listed among the 'Most Beautiful Villages'.

What to see

• The Porte d'en Bas — the gate into the old town.
• Place du Tilleul — an old lime tree and half-timbered houses.
• Sainte-Marie-Madeleine — a fortress church with arrow slits.
• Rue des Rondes — the ring street along the old walls.
• The Vieux Pérouges museum — in the House of the Prince.
• The Alps view — from the edge of the hill on clear days.

Streets and square

You enter through the Porte d'en Bas, and cobbled lanes begin straight away, lined with houses of stone and half-timbering: upper floors jut out over lower ones, with flowers at the windows. The Rue des Rondes rings the centre along the line of the double walls, taken down in the 18th century.

The heart of the town is Place du Tilleul, with a huge lime tree planted as a symbol of liberty after the French Revolution. Old houses surround it, including a 13th-century inn where scenes of many films were shot.

A town on film

Pérouges has kept its 15th–17th-century look so well that directors love it for period films. Monsieur Vincent (1947), The Three Musketeers (1961), Fanfan la Tulipe (1962) and many others were shot here.

Strolling the lanes, you'll recognise scenes from the films: old signs, wells, stone stairways and wooden balconies that seem to be waiting for the cameras to roll again.

The church and museum

The church of Sainte-Marie-Madeleine is built right into the line of fortifications: its walls, with arrow slits and a wall-walk, defended the town. Inside is a simple Gothic nave with old statues.

The House of the Prince holds the Vieux Pérouges museum: weavers' household objects, furniture, old artefacts and a watchtower. From the edge of the hill on a clear day you can see the Bugey mountains and even the Alps. A spring music festival runs from Baroque to jazz.

Tips for your visit

Two hours is enough for Pérouges, as the town is tiny. Mornings are quiet and lovely, while tourists arrive by lunchtime at weekends, so come early or on a weekday.

Pérouges makes an easy half-day trip from Lyon, leaving the rest of the day for the city, in Vieux-Lyon or up on Fourvière hill.

The cobbles are uneven and can be slippery, so wear good shoes; it's hard going with a pushchair. The town has a few restaurants and souvenir shops.

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How to do it right

• Come early to beat crowds.
• Eat the galette warm.
• Wear good shoes.
• Train to Meximieux.

Questions