Champ de Mars, Paris

About the Champ de Mars

The Champ de Mars is a large public park in the 7th arrondissement, between the Eiffel Tower to the north-west and the École Militaire to the south-east. It's named after the Campus Martius of ancient Rome, dedicated to the god Mars. These flat meadows once served as a parade ground, and before that, on the plain of Grenelle, they were market gardens growing vegetables and flowers.

It owes its present shape to the building of the École Militaire in 1765 to designs by Ange-Jacques Gabriel, architect of the Place de la Concorde: a vast esplanade was levelled before its grand façade and lined with elms. Today it's a long green vista of lawns, avenues and flowerbeds closed at one end by the Eiffel Tower.

Things to do on the Champ de Mars

• A picnic facing the tower — the classic Paris pleasure.
• Full-height tower photos — from the paths mid-field.
• The evening sparkle — every hour after dark.
• A walk to the École Militaire — along the avenues.
• Playgrounds and a carousel — for trips with children.
• Basketball and football — open courts in the park.

A picnic by the Eiffel Tower

The most Parisian thing to do on the Champ de Mars is a picnic. Pick up a baguette, cheese, fruit and something sweet from the shops on nearby Rue Cler and spread a blanket on the lawn facing the tower. On warm evenings thousands gather here: groups of friends, families and couples.

It's especially beautiful after sunset, when the Eiffel Tower glows gold and, at the top of every hour, sparkles for five minutes with thousands of flashing lights. From mid-field you see the tower full height, one of the best spots to photograph it at night.

The World's Fairs

The Champ de Mars hosted five World's Fairs: 1867, 1878, 1889, 1900 and 1937. Pavilions from around the world filled the vast esplanade, showing the latest machines, electricity and wonders of technology. For the 1889 fair, marking the centenary of the French Revolution, the Eiffel Tower was raised at the edge of the field, at first as a temporary structure.

Even earlier, on 27 August 1783, the physicist Jacques Charles and the Robert brothers launched the world's first hydrogen balloon from here, still without passengers. In the 1790s the field hosted grand revolutionary festivals with an altar and an artificial mountain designed by the painter Jacques-Louis David.

The École Militaire and the south end

To the south-east the field is closed by the stately École Militaire, with its dome and columns, built under Louis XV. It is still a place of study, so it's closed to visitors, but its façade is one of the finest classical buildings in Paris and a lovely backdrop for photos from the other end.

In 2021 the temporary Grand Palais Éphémère exhibition hall was built at the south end, and in 2024 the Olympic Eiffel Tower Stadium stood on Place Jacques-Rueff for the beach volleyball tournament. The Champ de Mars also hosted part of the Olympic opening ceremony.

For children and sport

The Champ de Mars is easy with children: there are playgrounds, a carousel and plenty of space to run. In summer kiosks sell ice cream and drinks, and the paths suit pushchairs.

For the sporty there are open basketball and football courts, and Parisians jog the avenues round the lawns in the mornings. It's had its film moment too: in the 1985 James Bond film A View to a Kill, Bond races across it in a taxi.

Tips for your visit

The Champ de Mars follows naturally from the Eiffel Tower or the Trocadéro: photograph the tower from the Trocadéro, cross the bridge, go up the tower and relax on the lawn. For a picnic, shop on Rue Cler or in the supermarkets around.

The best photo spots are the central path mid-field and the little bridge over the pond at the north end. Mornings are nearly empty, evenings lively and festive.

Public toilets are by the tower and at the edges of the field. Drinking alcohol in the park isn't allowed, so check the signs.

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How to do it right

• Picnic with a view.
• Sparkle every hour.
• Sit where no signs.
• Take rubbish home.

Questions