Parc Monceau, Paris

About Parc Monceau

Parc Monceau is a public park in the 8th arrondissement on Boulevard de Courcelles. It was founded by Philippe d'Orléans, Duke of Chartres, cousin of Louis XVI and one of the richest men in France. From 1769 he bought up land here, and in 1778 he hired the writer and painter Carmontelle to design a garden, completed in 1779.

The duke was an Anglophile who wanted a garden in the fashionable Anglo-Chinese manner. But Carmontelle aimed higher, 'to bring together in one garden all times and all places', surprising visitors at every step. The city bought the park in 1860, and in 1861 Baron Haussmann opened it as the first new public park in Paris.

What to see in the park

• The colonnade by the pond — a half-circle of Corinthian columns.
• The Egyptian pyramid — a little 18th-century folly.
• The Ledoux rotunda — a round pavilion at the main entrance.
• The gilded gates — wrought-iron gates 8 metres high.
• Statues of writers and musicians — Maupassant, Musset, Chopin, Gounod.
• Bridge and stream — picturesque corners of the English garden.

A garden of follies

Carmontelle's garden was full of follies, fantastic buildings from different ages and lands. There was a small Egyptian pyramid, a Roman colonnade, antique statues, a water-lily pond, a Tatar tent, a farm, a Dutch windmill, a temple of Mars, a minaret, an Italian vineyard and an enchanted grotto. Servants wore oriental costumes and unusual animals roamed the grounds.

Much has vanished, but some survives. The loveliest part is the oval pond framed by a half-circle of old Corinthian columns, one of the most photogenic spots in the park. You can also find the pyramid, a little stone bridge over the stream and the remains of the grotto.

The rotunda, gates and English garden

As early as 1781 part of the garden was remodelled in pure English style, with winding paths, lawns and groves, by the Scottish gardener Thomas Blaikie. In 1787 the architect Claude Nicolas Ledoux built a round rotunda shaped like a Doric temple at the park's northern edge, used as a customs post on the city wall.

Under Haussmann two wide avenues were laid across the park, meeting at the centre, and tall gilded wrought-iron gates were installed at the entrances, the main ones 8.3 metres high. Monceau remains a rare 'English' park in France, where statues seem scattered at random among the trees.

Monet, statues and a parachute

Artists and musicians loved the park: Claude Monet painted a series here in spring 1876 and more in 1878, and the composer Berlioz often walked its paths. Around 1900 statues of writers and composers were added, including Maupassant, Musset, Gounod, Ambroise Thomas and Chopin.

The park even holds a record: in 1797 the balloonist André-Jacques Garnerin made the world's first silk parachute jump here, leaping from a balloon and landing before a crowd.

With children and nearby

Monceau is a favourite with families from the 8th and 17th arrondissements. It has playgrounds, a carousel and plenty of space to play, and joggers fill the paths in the mornings. The benches by the pond are lovely for reading.

Around the park stand 19th-century mansions, and nearby is the Musée Cernuschi of Asian art, whose permanent collection is usually free. From here you can walk to the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs-Élysées in about 20 minutes.

Tips for your visit

An hour is enough for the park: walk the loop, sit by the colonnade pond and find the pyramid. With children, allow extra time for the playgrounds and carousel.

Monceau combines well with the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs-Élysées, or with a stroll round the surrounding mansion district. It's a calm place with few tourists, a good break after museums.

The park has toilets and kiosks. In the evening the gates close, and wardens walk the paths before closing time.

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How to do it right

• Free entry.
• Autumn for photos.
• The colonnade by the pond.
• The Arc de Triomphe is near.

Questions