Place des Vosges, Paris

About the Place des Vosges

The Place des Vosges is the oldest planned square in Paris, on the border of the 3rd and 4th arrondissements in the Marais. King Henry IV built it in 1605–1612 and called it the Place Royale. It was one of Europe's first royal town-planning schemes and became a model for residential squares in capitals across the continent.

It opened in 1612 with a grand equestrian carousel celebrating the engagement of the young Louis XIII and Anne of Austria. In the 17th and 18th centuries the nobility lived here, and the Place Royale is the reason the Marais became the most fashionable district in Paris. It took its present name in 1800, in honour of the Vosges département.

What to see

• Identical façades — red brick, white stone and blue roofs.
• The arcades — vaulted galleries of cafés and art galleries all round.
• The King's and Queen's Pavilions — tall gateways on the south and north.
• The lime-tree garden — fountains and a statue of Louis XIII.
• Maison de Victor Hugo — a museum in the writer's apartment.
• Hôtel de Sully — a passage from the corner into its courtyard and garden.

The architecture

What was new about the Place Royale was that every house followed one design, probably by the architect Jean-Baptiste Androuet du Cerceau. Façades of red brick with white stone quoins rise above vaulted arcades on square pillars, under steep blue-slate roofs with dormers. The result is a unified ensemble rare for its time.

Two pavilions rise above the common roofline, the King's on the south side and the Queen's on the north, with triple arches leading into the square. No king ever lived here, though; only Anne of Austria stayed briefly in the Queen's Pavilion.

The central garden

The middle of the square is a garden planted with clipped lime trees, with lawns, gravel paths and four fountains. At its centre stands an equestrian statue of Louis XIII; Cardinal Richelieu erected the first, and the present one dates from the 19th century.

It's a favourite spot for Marais residents to read, play with children and picnic. Sitting on the lawns is usually allowed here, unlike many Paris parks, but watch for signs.

Victor Hugo's house and famous residents

At number 6, Victor Hugo lived from 1832 to 1848, working on many of his books. His second-floor apartment is now a house museum recreating the writer's rooms with furniture, drawings and personal belongings. The permanent display is usually free.

Other famous names lived here too: the writer Madame de Sévigné was born at number 1 bis, Cardinal Richelieu lived at number 21, the poet Théophile Gautier and the writer Alphonse Daudet at number 8, and the scientist Émilie du Châtelet at number 12. From the south-west corner a passage leads into the courtyard and garden of the Hôtel de Sully, home of Henry IV's minister.

The arcades: galleries and cafés

Under the arcades all round the square are art galleries, antique dealers, cafés and restaurants with terraces. They're pleasant to walk in rain or heat, as the vaults keep the weather off, and gallery windows display painting, sculpture and photography.

From the square the streets of the Marais fan out, with 17th-century mansions, museums, boutiques and small squares. The Place de la Bastille is five minutes' walk down Rue de Birague.

Tips for your visit

Walk the arcades, step into Victor Hugo's house and cut through the Hôtel de Sully courtyard to Rue Saint-Antoine for a short but rich route.

The square is a natural part of a Marais walk: from here head to the Musée Carnavalet, the Picasso Museum and Rue des Rosiers. Many Marais shops open on Sundays, unlike in other districts.

To sit a while, take a spot on the garden lawn or a café terrace under the arcades, one of the most atmospheric places for coffee in Paris.

Places in Paris: compare and choose

Places in Paris rated by YesGo. Click a column header to sort.

Nearby and on the way

46

Le Marais

Paris, France

3 h · Free, it's a city district · 10 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Le Marais

45

Canal Saint-Martin

Paris, France

1 h 15 min · Free · 16 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Canal Saint-Martin

56

Hôtel de Ville

Paris, France

30 min · Square free, halls by tour · 17 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Hôtel de Ville

74

Notre-Dame de Paris

Paris, France

1 h · Free; optional timed booking · 21 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Notre-Dame de Paris

How to do it right

• Mornings for photos.
• Arcades in the rain.
• Hugo at number 6.
• Garden until evening.

Questions