Galleria Umberto I, Naples

History of the Galleria

The arcade was built in 1887–1890 to designs by the engineer Emanuele Rocco during a major rebuilding of central Naples, when wide new streets and buildings replaced cramped old quarters. It became a symbol of the modern city and was named after the King of Italy, Umberto I.

It was modelled on Milan's famous Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, but the Naples version rises higher. Shops, cafés, offices and flats moved in, and the basement held a variety theatre where stars of Neapolitan song performed. The Galleria is part of Naples' UNESCO-listed historic centre.

The dome and the mosaic floor

The highlight is the dome of glass and iron, about 57 metres high, where the four cross-shaped wings meet. By day light floods through the glass roof and the arcade feels like a vast bright hall. The inner façades are decorated with stucco, statues and columns in an eclectic style.

Right beneath the dome, the marble floor holds a zodiac mosaic with a compass rose. Look too at the main entrance facing the San Carlo theatre, an ornate arch with columns and sculptures that looks like the gateway to a palace.

What to see in the Galleria

• The glass dome — about 57 metres high.
• The zodiac mosaic — in the centre of the floor.
• The San Carlo entrance — an arch with columns.
• The inner façades — stucco and statues.
• Cafés and pastry shops — sfogliatella and espresso.
• Teatro di San Carlo — directly opposite.

What's nearby

The Galleria is right in the centre: the Teatro di San Carlo, one of Europe's oldest opera houses, faces it, and Piazza del Plebiscito with the Royal Palace and Castel Nuovo are a step away. One wing opens onto Via Toledo, Naples' main shopping street.

That makes it a natural starting point for a first walk: coffee in a café, then the square and palace, the castle and the waterfront. In the evening the arcade is lit and looks its best.

The San Carlo theatre opposite

Across the street from the main entrance stands the Teatro di San Carlo, one of Europe's oldest working opera houses, opened in the 18th century, decades before Milan's La Scala. Its red-and-gold auditorium with six tiers of boxes is considered one of the most beautiful in Italy.

By day you can join a guided tour of the auditorium, royal box and foyers; in the evening there's opera and ballet, with tickets on the theatre's official site. Even without a performance, linger by its colonnaded front, especially in the evening, when a dressed-up crowd gathers and the Galleria opposite glows with lights.

Tips for your visit

The Galleria is open around the clock, while shops and cafés keep daytime and evening hours. Come in the morning, when light streams through the dome, or in the evening, when it's lit. For the classic dome photo, stand in the middle by the mosaic and point the camera straight up.

It gets busy, especially at weekends, so keep an eye on bags and phones as in any crowded place. It's easy with children and buggies: a flat floor, no steps and plenty of places to rest.

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How to do it right

• Free, open 24 hours.
• The San Carlo theatre is opposite.
• Espresso standing at the bar.
• Lit up in the evening.

Questions