Pompeii, near Naples

History of Pompeii

Pompeii was a prosperous Roman town on the Bay of Naples, home to merchants, craftsmen and wealthy families with seaside villas. It had a forum, temples, public baths, theatres, shops and taverns, and streets paved with big stones and raised crossings for pedestrians.

In AD 79 an eruption of Vesuvius buried the town under a thick layer of ash and pumice. Pompeii lay hidden for almost seventeen centuries, which is why it survives as almost no other ancient town does, with wall paintings, mosaics, inscriptions and even cart ruts in the paving.

Systematic excavation began in 1748 and continues today, with new houses and frescoes revealed every year. In 1997 Pompeii and neighbouring Herculaneum were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

What to see in Pompeii

Start at the forum, the town's main square, with its famous view: the columns and arches of the Temple of Jupiter with Vesuvius rising behind. Around it are the basilica, where the law courts sat, the Temple of Apollo and the market. Nearby, the Stabian Baths have changing rooms, hot and cold halls and painted vaults.

The grandest homes are the House of the Faun, with its bronze dancing faun and a copy of the huge Alexander mosaic (the original is in the Naples Archaeological Museum), and the House of the Vettii, with vivid frescoes. Outside the walls, the Villa of the Mysteries holds a cycle of paintings on a red ground, among the finest surviving ancient paintings.

At the eastern edge stand the amphitheatre, built around 70 BC and the oldest surviving Roman amphitheatre, and the Large Theatre. Walk the main street, Via dell'Abbondanza, lined with shops, taverns with counters for hot food, and writing on the walls.

Pompeii highlights

• The forum — Temple of Jupiter columns and Vesuvius behind.
• Stabian Baths — Roman baths with painted vaults.
• House of the Faun — the largest house in town.
• House of the Vettii — vivid frescoes in a rich home.
• Villa of the Mysteries — paintings on a red ground.
• Amphitheatre — the oldest surviving Roman one.
• Via dell'Abbondanza — the main street of shops.

Tickets and how long to spend

Buy tickets on the archaeological park's official site or at the gate; entry is free on the first Sunday of the month, but queues are huge. Combined tickets cover other sites around Vesuvius, including Herculaneum.

Allow 3 to 4 hours for the highlights and a full day for the whole park. The main entrance is by Pompei Scavi – Villa dei Misteri station, with another on Piazza Anfiteatro. There are cafés, toilets and a left-luggage desk for large bags inside.

Pompeii, Herculaneum and Vesuvius in a day

Pompeii pairs well with a climb up Vesuvius: buses run from Pompeii station to the car park near the crater, then it's about half an hour on foot to the rim. That makes a full day, with the volcano in the morning and the town after lunch.

Alternatively, combine Pompeii and Herculaneum on one ticket: Herculaneum is smaller but better preserved, with wooden details and upper floors. Short on time? Choose one: Pompeii for scale, Herculaneum for preservation.

Ancient sites around Naples: compare and choose

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How to do it right

• The Circumvesuviana takes about 40 minutes from Naples.
• Water, a hat and good shoes.
• The Alexander mosaic is in the Naples museum.
• In summer, go at opening.

Questions