Piazza dei Miracoli
Pisa, Italy
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The architect Diotisalvi began the baptistery in 1152 at the west end of the square, facing the cathedral. Work went on for nearly two hundred years: the lowest tier is plain Romanesque with round arches, the upper ones ornate Gothic with pointed gables and statues added by the Pisano family.
The result is enormous, about 107 metres round and 55 metres high, the largest baptistery in Italy. Like the tower it leans slightly on the soft ground, though it's hard to notice. With the cathedral, tower and lawn it's on the UNESCO list.
The baptistery's real marvel is sound. Every half hour a custodian steps into the middle of the hall and sings a few short notes in a row. Under the huge double dome they echo, linger and overlap, so visitors hear not separate notes but a true chord, as if a choir were singing.
It's worth waiting for the next 'concert', usually announced at the entrance. It's brief but astonishing, and many people remember it more than anything else on the square.
Inside, the hall is bright and nearly empty, which emphasises its size. At the centre is a large 13th-century octagonal marble font with coloured inlay, crowned by a bronze statue of St John the Baptist. Beside it stands Nicola Pisano's hexagonal marble pulpit (1260), the first of the Pisano family's famous pulpits, with reliefs of the Nativity and the Last Judgement inspired by ancient Roman reliefs.
Half a century later Nicola's son, Giovanni Pisano, made a similar but even more dynamic pulpit for the cathedral. Comparing them is rewarding: from the father's calm, almost classical style to the son's lively, dramatic Gothic.
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The baptistery pairs naturally with the cathedral and a climb of the Leaning Tower: tickets are sold at the same desks, and a combo is usually better value. Photos without flash are allowed inside.
To hear the echo, ask at the entrance when the next song is and stand near the wall. The gallery stair is narrow and twisting, awkward with small children or buggies.
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The baptistery, the cathedral and the Leaning Tower.
3 places · about 2 h 16 min with walks · 6 min on foot in total
Its size, as Italy's largest baptistery, and its acoustics: a few notes under the dome sound like a chord.
Entry is paid; combined tickets cover the cathedral, tower and museums on the square.
Usually every half hour; ask at the entrance.
A marble font, Nicola Pisano's 1260 pulpit and an upper gallery with a view of the cathedral.
About 30 minutes.
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