Villa d'Este, Tivoli, Rome

Getting to Villa d'Este from Rome

Tivoli is 30 km east of Rome. A regional train from Roma Tiburtina takes about an hour to Tivoli station, then it's 15–20 minutes' walk uphill to the centre. Cotral buses leave from Ponte Mammolo on Metro B and take 45–60 minutes to Piazza Garibaldi, steps from the villa.

Many visitors pair it with Hadrian's Villa, 5 km away at the foot of the hill, by local bus or taxi. Day tours from Rome cover both.

About the villa

Cardinal Ippolito II d'Este, son of Lucrezia Borgia and the Duke of Ferrara, became governor of Tivoli and in 1550 began turning a former convent into a lavish villa. Architect and antiquarian Pirro Ligorio designed a terraced garden down the steep slope below, with water as its main material.

It counts 51 fountains and nymphaea, 364 water jets, 64 cascades and 220 basins — all running without a single pump: water from the Aniene river arrives by canal and underground aqueduct and falls by gravity through every level. A UNESCO site since 2001, it became the model for gardens across Europe.

The main fountains

• Avenue of the Hundred Fountains — a long terrace of masks and lilies spouting hundreds of jets.
• Fountain of the Organ — a 16th-century water organ that plays music by water power.
• Fountain of Neptune — a mighty cascade and pools below the Organ, added in the 20th century.
• Oval Fountain — a waterfall into a curved basin with grottoes.
• Rometta — 'little Rome', a model of the ancient city with the Tiber and island.
• Fountain of the Owl — mechanical birds once sang until an owl appeared.
• Fishponds — three long pools in the lower garden.

The water organ

The garden's marvel is the Fountain of the Organ, a giant 16th-century water organ: falling water compresses air into pipes while a pinned drum 'plays' a tune. Restored, it performs again several times a day in short sessions. The schedule is posted at the entrance — get there early for a good spot.

Step by step

1. Metro line B to Ponte Mammolo, then a Cotral bus to Tivoli (Piazza Garibaldi) — 45–60 minutes.
2. Or a train from Roma Tiburtina to Tivoli — about an hour, then 15–20 minutes on foot.
3. From Piazza Garibaldi to the entrance on Piazza Trento — 3 minutes.
4. To Hadrian's Villa — bus or taxi, 10–15 minutes.

Is Villa d'Este worth it?

Yes, if you have a spare day: it's one of the world's great gardens and a lovely break from city stone, cooler than Rome in summer thanks to the water and cypress shade. Spring, early summer and autumn are best; come at opening on weekdays. With Hadrian's Villa it makes a full, memorable day out. On a two- or three-day trip, stay in the centre.

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How to do it right

• The water organ plays on a schedule — ask at the gate.
• It's uphill on the way back — wear good shoes.
• The garden is cooler than Rome.
• Hadrian's Villa is 10–15 minutes away.

Questions