Archbasilica of St John Lateran, Rome

Rome's cathedral, not St Peter's

Most visitors assume St Peter's is Rome's cathedral. It isn't: the cathedral of Rome is the Lateran, where the pope's chair as Bishop of Rome stands. The inscription on the façade calls it the 'mother and head of all churches of the city and the world'.

Constantine founded it around AD 324 on land given to the Church next to the Lateran Palace, where popes lived until the 14th century. It's the oldest of Rome's four papal basilicas, alongside St Peter's, Santa Maria Maggiore and St Paul Outside the Walls.

Inside the basilica

Francesco Borromini remodelled the nave in 1646–1650, encasing the ancient columns in massive piers with niches. The niches now hold twelve marble apostles, each over 4 metres tall, beneath a gilded 16th-century coffered ceiling.

Over the papal altar rises a Gothic ciborium from the 14th century, said to hold relics of the heads of Saints Peter and Paul, and the apse has a 13th-century mosaic of Christ. Outside, Galilei's 1735 façade carries fifteen colossal statues — Christ, the two Saints John and Doctors of the Church — visible from far across the city.

Around the basilica

• Cloister — a 13th-century courtyard of twisted columns inlaid with Vassalletto mosaics; small fee.
• Lateran Baptistery — a 4th-century octagon, the model for baptisteries across Italy.
• Scala Santa — 28 marble steps across the square, climbed on your knees.
• Sancta Sanctorum — the popes' private chapel at the top of the stairs, ticketed.
• Lateran Obelisk — Rome's tallest, from Karnak in Egypt.
• Porta San Giovanni — a gate in the Aurelian Walls at the south side of the square.

The Scala Santa

Across the piazza is the Scala Santa, a flight of 28 steps that tradition says came from Pontius Pilate's palace in Jerusalem, brought to Rome by Constantine's mother Helena. Pilgrims climb the central flight only on their knees, free of charge; side staircases let you walk up normally. At the top is the Sancta Sanctorum, the medieval papal chapel, which has a separate ticket.

Best time to visit

The Lateran is far calmer than St Peter's — no security line and far fewer tour groups. Come in the morning, when light falls on the apostles in the nave. It pairs naturally with the Colosseum and Santa Maria Maggiore, about 20 minutes' walk away down Via Merulana.

Is the Lateran Basilica worth it?

Yes — especially once you've seen St Peter's. It's just as grand, free, by the metro and refreshingly quiet, and the Scala Santa across the square is one of Rome's most unusual sights. An hour covers everything.

Rome's churches: compare and choose

Churches and basilicas in Rome rated by YesGo. Click a column header to sort.

Nearby and on the way

39

Basilica of San Clemente

Rome, Italy

1 h · Upper free; excavations ≈ €10–12 · 14 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Basilica of San Clemente

49

Domus Aurea

Rome, Italy

1 h 15 min · ≈ €18, with VR ≈ €26 · 19 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Domus Aurea

48

Catacombs of Rome

Rome, Italy

1 h 30 min · ≈ €10–12 with guide · 20 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Catacombs of Rome

73

Colosseum

Rome, Italy

2 h · ≈ €18 · 22 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Colosseum

How to do it right

• There's rarely any queue to get in.
• Borromini's apostles look best in morning light.
• The Scala Santa's main flight is climbed on your knees.
• Santa Maria Maggiore is 20 minutes' walk away.

Questions