Segovia: a day trip from Madrid

About Segovia

Segovia sits on a rocky ridge between two rivers at the foot of the Guadarrama mountains. In ancient times it was a Roman town, in the Middle Ages one of the great centres of Castile, and its royal castle, the Alcázar, long served as a residence of monarchs. In 1985 the old town and its aqueduct joined the UNESCO list.

The town is small and charming: from the aqueduct, the main street climbs in half an hour through the Plaza Mayor to the cathedral and on to the castle at the western tip of the ridge. Along the way are Romanesque churches, palaces with patterned façades and viewpoints over the mountains.

The aqueduct, cathedral and Alcázar

The Roman aqueduct is the city's symbol. Built around the 1st or 2nd century of granite blocks laid without mortar, it holds together through precise weight and engineering alone. Its tallest stretch, about 28 metres, crosses Plaza del Azoguejo, and it has 167 arches in all. For centuries it carried water to the town from the mountains.

In the middle of the old town rises the cathedral, built in the 16th century and one of the last Gothic cathedrals in Spain, nicknamed the 'lady of cathedrals' for its elegance. At the western edge of the rock stands the Alcázar, a castle-palace of pointed towers straight out of a fairy tale. Inside are a throne room and halls with carved wooden ceilings, and the main tower looks out over the valley.

What to see in Segovia

• The Roman aqueduct — granite arches without mortar.
• Plaza del Azoguejo — the best view of the aqueduct.
• The cathedral — late Gothic, the 'lady of cathedrals'.
• The Alcázar — a castle-palace on the rock.
• Plaza Mayor — cafés facing the cathedral.
• Romanesque churches — San Millán and San Martín.

Food and walks

Segovia is famous for cochinillo, suckling pig roasted in a wood oven until the skin crackles. In the well-known restaurants by the aqueduct it's traditionally carved with the edge of a plate to show how tender it is. Try the hearty bean stew and the local sweet, ponche segoviano, a marzipan-topped sponge.

For great photos, walk down to the valley below the Alcázar or along the viewpoints by the town walls, where the castle stands against the mountains. In winter the Guadarrama peaks are often snowy, and the town looks especially magical.

Tips for your trip

The high-speed station is outside town, so take the bus straight to the aqueduct, as it's a long walk. The bus from Madrid is slower but drops you at the old town, often easier for a day trip. Book weekend tickets ahead.

Segovia is higher and cooler than Madrid: even summer evenings can be fresh, and winter is cold and windy, so bring a jacket. Wear comfortable shoes for the steep cobbles, and book your cochinillo lunch, especially at weekends.

You can pair Segovia with Ávila or El Escorial, but each deserves its own day. It's fun with children too: a towered castle, the aqueduct and wide squares to run around in.

How to do it right

• Trains leave from Chamartín.
• Walk from the aqueduct to the castle.
• Bring a jacket: it's cooler here.
• Book your cochinillo lunch.

Questions