Almudena Cathedral, Madrid

About Almudena Cathedral

Madrid went a long time without a cathedral of its own: it became Spain's capital in the 16th century, but only got its own diocese in the 19th. A cathedral dedicated to the Virgin of Almudena, the city's patron, was begun in 1883, but lack of money and changes of design stretched the work out over 110 years.

It was first planned as neo-Gothic, but the exterior ended up in a restrained neoclassical style to match the neighbouring Royal Palace. It was consecrated by Pope John Paul II in 1993, making it one of Europe's youngest great cathedrals.

Inside the cathedral

The interior surprises anyone expecting ancient gloom. Its neo-Gothic vaults are painted with bright modern patterns in blue, red and gold, and the windows hold 20th-century stained glass. Large mosaics rise behind the altar, and the side chapels hold icons and sculpture from different eras.

The most revered image is the old statue of the Virgin of Almudena in a chapel by the transept. Legend says it was found hidden in the fortress wall, hence the name, from an Arabic word for a citadel wall. On her feast day in November a solemn procession sets off from the cathedral.

Look out for the organ above the entrance and the chapels along the nave, each in its own style, from old icons to sculpture by modern Spanish artists. The museum displays vestments, drawings of rival designs and models showing how the cathedral was imagined in the 19th century.

What to see in the cathedral

• Neo-Gothic vaults — with bright modern painting.
• Stained glass — 20th-century coloured windows.
• The Almudena statue — Madrid's patron.
• The altar mosaics — in the apse.
• The cathedral museum — the building's story and treasures.
• The dome terrace — views of the palace and city.

Around the cathedral

The cathedral stands on the edge of the hill where a Moorish fortress once was, beside the broad Plaza de la Armería, with the cathedral on one side and the Royal Palace on the other. By the south façade survives a fragment of the 9th-century Arab wall, the oldest structure in Madrid.

From here you look over the Manzanares valley and the Casa de Campo park. In the evening the square fills with sunset light, one of the loveliest spots in the city. Behind the cathedral, the Calle de Bailén viaduct overlooks La Latina.

Tips for your visit

Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered. Photos without flash are usually fine, but not during services. Mornings and early afternoons are quiet, and there are often weddings at weekends, when parts of the nave may be closed to visitors.

The cathedral is easy to see straight after the Royal Palace, as their entrances are only a few minutes apart across the square. Then walk on to Plaza Mayor and the San Miguel market or down into La Latina and its tapas bars.

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How to do it right

• The cathedral is free.
• Reach the dome through the museum.
• The Royal Palace is opposite.
• Sunset on Plaza de la Armería.

Questions