Seville Cathedral
Seville, Spain
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The General Archive of the Indies was created on the orders of King Charles III and opened in 1785. Documents from across Spain about its voyages, trade and territories in the Americas and Asia were gathered here: letters, reports, maps, town plans and ship logs. It's one of the world's largest collections of documents on the New World.
It was housed in a former merchants' exchange built in the late 16th century to a design by Juan de Herrera, the architect of El Escorial near Madrid. The building is a fine example of Italianate Spanish Renaissance. In 1987 the archive joined the UNESCO list together with Seville Cathedral and the Alcázar.
Before the archive, the building belonged to merchants. They had done business on the cathedral steps until the church asked them to leave, so an exchange was built for them. Trade with lands overseas was run from here: deals were struck, ships insured and news from the ports discussed.
The building is square, with an inner courtyard ringed by two storeys of arcaded galleries. Outside it looks austere, all pale stone, regular windows and a rooftop balustrade. Inside, the showpiece is the grand marble staircase of pink and black stone leading to the upper floor.
Upstairs, long vaulted galleries are lined with tall mahogany cabinets made from wood shipped from the Americas. Their shelves hold thousands of document files, and with their carved cornices and bronze fittings the cabinets look like part of a palace interior.
The central halls host exhibitions of antique sea charts, port and town plans, drawings of New World plants and animals, and letters from travellers and captains. Displays change, but you can almost always see original documents signed by famous navigators. Labels are in Spanish and English.
Even if you're not a historian, the archive is worth it for the atmosphere. It's quiet, cool and nearly empty, and walking the galleries among the old cabinets feels like stepping into a library from a film. After the busy square by the cathedral, it's a welcome pause.
The old maps show how people in the 16th to 18th centuries pictured the world, with inaccurate coastlines and ships and sea monsters drawn in the margins. Children enjoy comparing them with modern maps and spotting familiar countries.
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Fit the archive into a morning at the cathedral: after the Giralda, cross the square for half an hour here, then head to the Alcázar on your pre-booked ticket. Photography without flash is allowed, but don't touch the cabinets or display cases.
The building is handsome outside too: the best photos are from Plaza del Triunfo, with the archive against the cathedral. The façade is floodlit in the evening.
If voyages interest you, also visit the Torre del Oro on the riverbank, an old tower with a small maritime museum, about 10 minutes' walk along Avenida de la Constitución.
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Seville, Spain
Seville, Spain
Seville, Spain
Seville, Spain
Entry is usually free.
40–60 minutes.
The marble staircase, the cabinet galleries and exhibitions of old maps and letters.
Between Seville Cathedral and the Alcázar.
Yes, without flash.
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