The Mezquita of Córdoba: a trip from Seville

About the Mezquita

The Mezquita is one of Spain's most astonishing buildings: the former Great Mosque of Córdoba, which has served as the city's cathedral since the 13th century. Building began in 785 under Emir Abd al-Rahman I, and his successors enlarged it until the late 10th century. A minaret was added in 958 and a richly decorated mihrab in 971.

In the 13th century the mosque became a cathedral, but the building itself changed little for a long time. Only in the 16th century was a tall Renaissance nave with a dome and choir inserted into the middle of the columned hall. So today one building holds both Islamic architecture and a Christian cathedral. A UNESCO site since 1984, it still holds Mass every day.

The forest of columns and striped arches

Step inside and you're in the half-light of a vast hall, with rows of columns running in every direction. There are hundreds of them, many reused from older Roman and Visigothic buildings, so they differ in marble colour and capitals. Above them rise the famous double-tiered arches of alternating red brick and white stone.

This 'forest of columns' is the Mezquita's defining image, and however many photos you've seen, it astonishes in person. The double arches let the builders raise the ceiling without thickening the columns. Walk the hall slowly, stopping at different spots: each row opens a new perspective.

What to see in the Mezquita

• The columned hall — hundreds of columns and red and white arches.
• The mihrab — a niche with 10th-century gold mosaics.
• The Renaissance cathedral — nave, dome and carved choir.
• The Orange Tree Courtyard — a patio of fountains by the entrance.
• The bell tower — the former minaret, with city views.
• The façade gates — carved arches on the outer walls.

The mihrab and cathedral

In the far wall of the hall is the mihrab, the niche marking the direction of prayer. It's decorated with gold and coloured 10th-century mosaics made by craftsmen invited from Constantinople. In front of it, patterned domes and interlaced arches make this the most richly decorated part of the old mosque.

In the middle of the hall, a bright, lofty Renaissance cathedral suddenly opens up, with a dome, marble altar and carved mahogany choir stalls. The contrast with the dim columns is striking. Walk around it to see how Gothic and Renaissance vaults meet the ancient arches.

Córdoba around the Mezquita

The Mezquita sits at the heart of old Córdoba, with plenty to see around it. A short walk away is the Roman bridge over the Guadalquivir, with a view back to the Mezquita that's especially lovely at sunset. Nearby is the Jewish quarter, with narrow whitewashed lanes, flowerpots on the walls and a small medieval synagogue.

Close by is the Alcázar of the Christian Monarchs, with gardens, ponds and fountains. In spring Córdoba is famous for its patios, inner courtyards overflowing with flowers, many of which open to visitors in May. Taverns around the Mezquita serve salmorejo, a thick cold tomato soup and the local speciality.

Tips for your trip

Book train tickets ahead: morning trains fill up in high season, and an early start gets you to the Mezquita at opening time. Take an evening train back so you have time for the Jewish quarter and sunset on the Roman bridge.

In summer Córdoba is one of Spain's hottest cities, often topping 40 °C by day. Plan walks for the morning and evening, and spend midday in the cool of the Mezquita, the Alcázar or a restaurant. Cover shoulders and knees inside the Mezquita.

It's a good trip with children too: the rows of columns feel like a maze, and the Roman bridge and Alcázar gardens give them room to run. Bring water and hats.

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How to do it right

• Book the AVE ahead.
• Be there at opening time.
• Sunset on the Roman bridge.
• Very hot in summer.

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