5 days in Istanbul: a day-by-day itinerary

Tips for each stop

Day 1

1. 1

   Hagia Sophia. Day one, at opening time — the one place on the trip where beating the queue really matters.

2. 2

   Basilica Cistern. Across the road. If there is a queue, come back any evening: it stays open late.

3. 3

   Hippodrome (Sultanahmet Square). The square between the two great mosques — on the way, no ticket.

4. 4

   Blue Mosque. Free, between prayers. The courtyard is a good first pause of the trip.

5. 5

   Bosphorus ferry cruise. Your first look at the Bosphorus, from Eminönü. Later you will cross it again on the way to Kadıköy.

Day 2

1. 6

   Süleymaniye Mosque. The morning of day two — the finest terrace in the old city, over the Golden Horn.

2. 7

   Grand Bazaar. Look now, buy on the last day, when you know the prices. Closed on Sundays.

3. 8

   Topkapı Palace. Three hours on the afternoon of day two. Closed on Tuesdays.

Day 3

1. 9

   Fatih Mosque. A quiet start to day three on the fourth hill, away from the groups.

2. 10

   Spice Bazaar. Spices and Turkish delight by the Galata Bridge — 40 minutes.

3. 11

   Gülhane Park. Shade and benches by the walls of Topkapı.

4. 12

   Galata Tower. Across the bridge in Galata. The light is best in the morning or evening.

5. 13

   Dolmabahçe Palace. The 19th-century palace by the water. Closed on Mondays.

Day 4

1. 14

   Kadıköy. The ferry from Eminönü takes about 20 minutes. The market by the pier, Bahariye Street with its bull statue and the Moda waterfront with a view of the old city.

2. 15

   Maiden’s Tower. A boat from the shore at Üsküdar. People go for the view from the water and from the tower more than for what is inside.

3. 16

   Üsküdar. Two Sinan mosques by the pier and a waterfront to the Maiden's Tower — the best sunset over Sultanahmet.

4. 17

   Çamlıca Mosque. Metro M5 to Kısıklı and 20–30 minutes uphill. Six minarets, four of them 107 m tall, and a view of both shores of the Bosphorus.

Day 5

1. 18

   New Mosque. Day five starts at Eminönü: a mosque with İznik tiles right by the pier. On Fridays visitors are let in after the midday prayer.

2. 19

   Rüstem Pasha Mosque. Up a narrow staircase between the shops of Tahtakale. Inside, tiles cover the walls from floor to dome.

3. 20

   Balat and Fener. Tram T5 from Eminönü — 15 minutes. Colourful houses, steep lanes and the red Phanar school: 2–3 hours, no tickets.

4. 21

   Chora Church. 15–20 minutes uphill from Balat: 14th-century mosaics. A ticket for foreigners; closed to visitors on Fridays.

5. 22

   Pierre Loti Hill. The finale of the trip — sunset over the Golden Horn: the cable car on an Istanbulkart or a walk up through Eyüp cemetery.