Fiesole, above Florence

History of Fiesole

Fiesole is older than Florence. The Etruscans founded it on a hilltop above the Arno valley, and Faesulae was long the leading town in the area. Then came the Romans, who added a theatre, baths and a temple. Florence grew up later, down by the river, and in time came to rule its older neighbour.

In the Renaissance, wealthy Florentines began building villas with gardens on Fiesole's slopes to get away from the summer heat and noise. One of the first was built for the Medici, and under Lorenzo the Magnificent philosophers and poets gathered there. The hill has been a favourite Florentine outing ever since, and writers and painters have recorded its views for centuries.

Today Fiesole is a quiet town with one main square, a few churches, cafés and paths through olive groves and cypresses. It's cooler than the city below and far less crowded, which makes it a fine break from Florence's museums.

The Roman theatre and archaeological area

The main sight is the archaeological area just behind the square. At its heart is the Roman theatre from the 1st century BC: stone tiers curve down to the stage with green hills behind. It isn't just a ruin; every summer it hosts the Estate Fiesolana festival of concerts, plays and open-air cinema.

Nearby are the remains of Roman baths, with pools and arches, and the base of an Etruscan-Roman temple, while a stretch of the old Etruscan wall of huge stones runs along the edge of the site. A small archaeological museum by the entrance holds finds from the digs: Etruscan and Roman pottery, bronzes and jewellery. Allow about an hour for it all.

Things to do in Fiesole

• Roman theatre — 1st-century BC tiers looking out over the hills.
• Archaeological museum — Etruscan and Roman finds.
• San Romolo cathedral — Romanesque church on the main square.
• San Francesco friary — the hilltop and its viewpoint.
• Piazza Mino — cafés and the town's evening life.
• Paths above Florence — among olives and cypresses.

The cathedral and San Francesco

On the main square, Piazza Mino, stands San Romolo cathedral, begun in 1028. It's plain outside, with a tall crenellated bell tower, and inside a dim Romanesque hall on ancient columns with a raised choir. Entry to the cathedral is usually free.

Climb higher, to the very top of the hill, and you reach the Franciscan friary of San Francesco. It's peaceful, with flowers in a little cloister and a small museum of objects the friars brought back from distant missions. But the real reward is the view, with Florence laid out below.

Further down the slope is the Villa Medici in Fiesole, with terraced gardens, one of the first Renaissance villas. Its gardens sometimes open to visitors by appointment.

Spending half a day in Fiesole

A good plan is to come up after lunch. See the archaeological area and museum first while they're open, then climb to San Francesco and the viewpoint, and finish with dinner or an aperitivo on the square at sunset. Bus 7 runs into the evening, but less often late and at weekends, so check the timetable.

In summer Fiesole is a few degrees cooler than Florence, which makes it the ideal time for an evening concert in the Roman theatre. Wear comfortable shoes: the streets are steep and the olive-grove paths are stony. Children tend to love the theatre, where they can run up and down the ancient steps, and the winding bus ride up.

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How to do it right

• Bus 7 takes about 30 minutes.
• Best view: by San Francesco.
• Cooler than Florence in summer.
• Wear comfortable shoes.

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