Pyramid of Cestius
Rome, Italy
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The covered Testaccio Market moved into a new building in 2012. Romans shop here for vegetables, cheese and meat, and between the stalls you'll find street food: braised-beef sandwiches, supplì, pizza and pasta to go — one of the best cheap lunches in Rome.
Testaccio is considered the birthplace of Roman 'fifth-quarter' cooking — dishes made from the cuts left after butchering at the old slaughterhouse: oxtail stew (*coda alla vaccinara*), tripe and more. Alongside are the classics — carbonara, cacio e pepe, amatriciana and artichokes — in some of the most authentic trattorias in the city.
Testaccio lies on the left bank of the Tiber south of the Aventine. In ancient times it was Rome's river port, where barges unloaded grain, wine and olive oil from across the empire beside vast warehouses. In the 19th and 20th centuries it filled with workers' housing and the city slaughterhouse, becoming a district of butchers, dockers and craftsmen.
Today it's a lively, deeply Roman quarter with few tourists: families, markets, bars and trattorias. The name comes from the Latin *testae*, 'potsherds' — a direct reference to its most famous sight.
Monte Testaccio is an artificial hill about 35 metres high made entirely of fragments of some 53 million amphorae — clay jars that carried olive oil to Rome in the 1st–3rd centuries, mostly from Spain. Oil jars couldn't be reused, so they were smashed and stacked here in neat layers sprinkled with lime.
It's one of antiquity's biggest rubbish heaps and a priceless archive: many shards still bear stamps naming merchants and dates. You can climb it only on a booked guided tour; at its foot, restaurants and clubs built into caves in the slope show walls of shards.
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Yes, if you love food and want to see everyday Rome: the best Roman cooking at normal prices, with hardly a tourist. The amphora hill is unique in the world. Combine it with the Pyramid of Cestius, the Aventine and St Paul Outside the Walls.
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Markets and neighbourhoods in Rome rated by YesGo. Click a column header to sort.
| Campo de' Fiori | 47 | 30 min | Free | 38 min walk |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Trastevere | 44 | 2 h | Free | 25 min walk |
| Testaccioyou are here | 38 | 2 h | Free | — |
The Pyramid of Cestius by the metro, lunch at Testaccio Market, then St Paul Outside the Walls.
3 places · about 3 h 47 min with walks · 42 min on foot in total
Rome, Italy
Rome, Italy
Rome, Italy
Rome, Italy
An old working-class Rome district by the Tiber, known for its market, Roman cooking and a hill of ancient amphorae.
Usually Monday to Saturday, morning to mid-afternoon; closed Sunday.
An artificial hill about 35 m high made from roughly 53 million broken 1st–3rd-century amphorae.
Metro B to Piramide, then 5–10 minutes on foot.
Oxtail stew, tripe, carbonara, cacio e pepe and the market's street food.
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Rome, Italy
Rome, Italy
Rome, Italy
Rome, Italy
Rome, Italy
Rome, Italy
Rome, Italy
Rome, Italy
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