Trastevere, Rome

Things to do in Trastevere

• Santa Maria in Trastevere — one of Rome's oldest churches, with golden 12th-century mosaics and a fountain on its square.
• Santa Cecilia in Trastevere — Maderno's statue of St Cecilia and Cavallini's Last Judgement fresco.
• Villa Farnesina — a Renaissance villa frescoed by Raphael.
• Piazza Trilussa — fountain steps where the neighbourhood gathers at night.
• Ponte Sisto — a 15th-century footbridge into the centre near Campo de' Fiori.
• San Pietro in Montorio and the Tempietto — on the Janiculum slope.
• The Janiculum — the hill above with a sweeping view of Rome.
• Porta Portese market — the Sunday-morning flea market.

About the neighbourhood

Trastevere comes from the Latin *trans Tiberim*, 'across the Tiber'. In ancient times sailors, craftsmen and immigrants lived here; the Middle Ages left narrow streets, bell towers and courtyards largely untouched by 19th-century rebuilding.

Locals, the trasteverini, have long thought of themselves as the truest Romans, with their own dialect and the Festa de' Noantri ('our festival') every July. By day it's quiet and picturesque; at night the lanes fill with diners, bars and musicians.

A walking route

Start at Ponte Sisto and cross to Piazza Trilussa, then wind along Via della Lungaretta or Via della Scala to Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere, the heart of the district. Head south-east down quiet Via dei Vascellari to Santa Cecilia, or north-west to Villa Farnesina and the botanical garden.

With energy left, climb the stairs to San Pietro in Montorio and on up the Janiculum for one of Rome's best views of the domes, especially at sunset. The whole loop is 3–4 km — 2–3 hours with stops.

Where to eat

Trastevere is one of Rome's best areas for dinner, packed with trattorias serving the classics: cacio e pepe and carbonara, Roman artichokes, fried courgette flowers and supplì, the rice croquettes with molten mozzarella. Thin, crisp Roman pizza comes from wood-fired ovens.

The most touristy places sit on the main squares with multilingual menus and touts. Head a street or two away, into the lanes around Via della Scala and Via di San Francesco a Ripa, and look for where Romans eat. Dinner starts late — after 20:00 — and good trattorias are worth booking at weekends.

Is Trastevere worth visiting?

Absolutely — this is the Rome of the films: cobbles, laundry lines, ivy and family trattorias. There are no big museums, but some of the city's loveliest churches and its best evenings. Come by day for the churches and Villa Farnesina, climb the Janiculum for sunset, then come down for dinner. Sunday mornings add the Porta Portese market; July brings the Festa de' Noantri.

Rome's squares and streets: compare and choose

Squares and walking spots in Rome rated by YesGo. Click a column header to sort.

Nearby and on the way

45

Tempietto

Rome, Italy

20 min · Free · 3 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Tempietto

50

Santa Maria in Trastevere

Rome, Italy

30 min · Free · 7 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Santa Maria in Trastevere

37

Villa Farnesina

Rome, Italy

1 h · ≈ €12 · 13 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Villa Farnesina

39

Palazzo Farnese

Rome, Italy

1 h 15 min · Paid, booking only · 16 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Palazzo Farnese

How to do it right

• Quiet lanes by day, dinner and music by night.
• Eat in the side streets, not on the main squares.
• Watch sunset from the Janiculum above.
• Tram 8 is the quick way from the centre.

Questions