Retiro Park, Madrid

About Retiro Park

The park began in the 17th century as the gardens of King Philip IV's Buen Retiro palace, the 'pleasant retreat'. Little of the palace survives, and the gardens stayed royal for centuries. In 1868 they opened to everyone, and the Retiro has been Madrid's favourite place to relax ever since.

Today it's a huge green island of about 125 hectares in the middle of the city, between the Prado and the Salamanca district, with thousands of trees, ponds, fountains, sculptures and exhibition pavilions. In 2021 the park and the Paseo del Prado joined the UNESCO list as a landscape of arts and sciences.

The Great Pond and the boats

At the heart of the park is the Great Pond, the Estanque Grande, a rectangular lake where you can hire a rowing boat. On one bank stands a grand semicircular colonnade with an equestrian statue of King Alfonso XII, whose steps look out over the whole pond. At weekends musicians, puppeteers and street artists gather around it.

Row in the morning or towards evening, when it's cooler. There's a queue at the jetty at weekends, so weekdays are easier. Cafés with terraces ring the pond for a coffee by the water.

The Crystal Palace and rose garden

The park's most photogenic spot is the Crystal Palace, the Palacio de Cristal, a glass and iron pavilion from 1887 on the edge of a small lake with a fountain and ducks. Inside are free contemporary art exhibitions, while outside its glass walls are mirrored in the water.

Nearby is the brick Velázquez Palace, also used for exhibitions, and in the south of the park the rose garden, La Rosaleda, where thousands of roses bloom in spring and early summer. There are plenty of quiet corners too: an avenue of statues of Spanish kings, gardens and woodland paths popular with joggers.

What to see in Retiro Park

• The Great Pond — rowing boats and the Alfonso XII colonnade.
• The Crystal Palace — a glass pavilion over a lake.
• The Velázquez Palace — contemporary art exhibitions.
• The rose garden — thousands of roses in spring.
• The avenue of statues — Spain's kings along the paths.
• Puerta de Alcalá — the triumphal gate by the park entrance.

Tips for your visit

The Retiro is lovely all year: roses and chestnuts bloom in spring, the shade keeps it cooler than the streets in summer, and the avenues turn gold in autumn. Sundays are liveliest, with families, musicians and puppet shows for children.

With children you could spend half a day here: boats, playgrounds, a puppet theatre and lots of space to run. Bikes and scooters are allowed on the main avenues. The park closes at night and may close by day in strong winds, so check the notices at the gate.

The Retiro pairs naturally with the Prado, right by its western gates, and a walk along the Paseo del Prado to the Cibeles fountain. In the evening you can stroll into the elegant Salamanca district next door for shops and restaurants.

Nearby and on the way

52

Prado Museum

Madrid, Spain

2 h 30 min · Paid · 12 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Prado Museum

43

Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum

Madrid, Spain

2 h · Paid · 16 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum

42

Reina Sofía Museum

Madrid, Spain

2 h 30 min · Paid; free evenings · 19 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Reina Sofía Museum

52

Puerta del Sol

Madrid, Spain

25 min · Free · 29 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Puerta del Sol

How to do it right

• Entry is free.
• Hire boats on weekdays.
• The Crystal Palace is by the lake.
• The Prado is next door.

Questions