Ávila: a day trip from Madrid

About Ávila

Ávila stands on a high plateau about 1,130 metres above sea level, making it the highest provincial capital in Spain. It's famous for its walls, begun in the 11th century and almost completely intact: about 2.5 kilometres long, with 88 towers and 9 gates around the old centre. From a distance Ávila looks like a storybook fortress.

It's the birthplace of Saint Teresa of Ávila, one of Spain's most revered saints, a writer and founder of convents, so the town is full of churches and convents linked to her name. In 1985 the old town and its Romanesque churches outside the walls were added to the UNESCO list.

The walls and cathedral

You can walk along the top of the walls on several stretches, looking over the old town's tiled roofs, bell towers and the plain beyond. Access is ticketed, through the Alcázar or Carmen gates; the walkways are wide, with some steep stairs. It's especially lovely at sunset, when the stone turns golden.

The cathedral is one of Spain's first Gothic cathedrals, and its massive apse is built right into the line of the walls, making the church part of the defences. Inside are a carved altarpiece, choir stalls and a museum. Nearby are the Basilica of San Vicente outside the gates, a 12th-century Romanesque church with a fine portal, and the Convent of Saint Teresa, built on the site of her family home.

What to see in Ávila

• The town walls — a walk along the top and 88 towers.
• The cathedral — its apse built into the wall.
• Basilica of San Vicente — a Romanesque church by the gates.
• Convent of Saint Teresa — on the site of her home.
• Cuatro Postes — a viewpoint over the whole town.
• Plaza Mayor — cafés under the arcades.

Food and sweets

Ávila is famous for yemas de Santa Teresa, little sweets of egg yolk and sugar sold in every pastry shop. Try the celebrated chuletón, a thick steak of local Avileña beef grilled over coals, and the stewed beans from nearby villages.

For lunch, try the restaurants around the Plaza Mayor or by the gates, many in old stone houses. Ávila is especially cosy in the cold months, when hearty Castilian food hits the spot.

Tips for your trip

Ávila sits high in the mountains, so it's noticeably cooler than Madrid: you'll want a jacket even on summer evenings, and winter can bring snow and strong winds. Wear comfortable shoes, as the walls and cobbled streets involve plenty of walking.

In a day you can comfortably walk the walls, see the cathedral, San Vicente and the Convent of Saint Teresa, and climb to Cuatro Postes for sunset. With a car, Ávila combines with Segovia, about an hour apart, though each is best given its own day.

With children Ávila is a fairy tale: walking the walls like knights, spotting towers and gates and tasting the sweets. The town is small and safe, with everything within walking distance.

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How to do it right

• Walking the walls is the highlight.
• Bring a jacket: it's cool up here.
• Sunset from Cuatro Postes.
• Try the yemas de Santa Teresa.

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