Èze: the cliff-top village near Nice

About Èze

Èze is a commune on the Riviera 8.5 kilometres north-east of Nice and 4.5 kilometres from Monaco. It has two parts: Èze-sur-Mer by the sea and Èze Village, the medieval village on top of the rock that everyone comes to see. At 427 metres up, it's known as an 'eagle's nest'.

People lived here more than two thousand years ago. In the Middle Ages Èze became a fortified stronghold of the House of Savoy, and in 1706 Louis XIV destroyed its castle and walls. Today the castle survives as ruins on the summit, and the village has become a 'museum village' of galleries, shops and restaurants. Èze has been part of France since 1860.

What to see in Èze

• The exotic garden — cacti and succulents on the summit.
• The panorama — the Riviera from Nice to Italy.
• The Church of the Assumption — a pale ochre façade from 1764.
• The Chapel of the Holy Cross — the oldest building, from 1306.
• Medieval lanes — arches, steps and stone houses.
• The Nietzsche Path — a walk down to the sea at Èze-sur-Mer.

The exotic garden and the view

On the very summit, among the ruins of the old castle, lies the exotic garden: cacti, agaves and other succulents grow between the rocks, with sculptures of women among the plants. But the real draw is the view: from the top terrace you see the whole bay, the coast to Nice and Monaco and, on a clear day, Italy and Corsica.

It's one of the best viewpoints on the Riviera, worth the climb up the steep lanes to the very top. The garden charges an entry fee, paid at the gate.

Lanes, church and chapel

There are no roads for cars in the village, only narrow cobbled passages, arches, stone steps and flower-filled courtyards. The old houses hold galleries, workshops and souvenir shops, as well as renowned hotels and restaurants with terraces above the cliff.

At the foot of the hill stands the Church of Our Lady of the Assumption, built in 1764: its pale ochre façade is visible from afar, and inside are rich Baroque décor and an Egyptian cross recalling the site's ancient roots. The village's oldest building is the Chapel of the Holy Cross from 1306, with a Genoese-style bell turret.

Èze-sur-Mer and the path to the sea

Below, by the sea, lies Èze-sur-Mer, with a beach and a railway station. The cliff-top village and the shore are linked by an old footpath called the Nietzsche Path: the philosopher walked it while living on the Riviera. The descent takes about an hour, the climb longer.

Many people ride the bus up to Èze Village, walk down the path to the sea and take the train back to Nice. The route has views of cliffs and coves. It's slippery in heat and after rain, so wear good shoes.

Èze curiosities

The village motto is 'Isis Moriendo Renascor', 'In death I am reborn', and its emblem is a phoenix. Legend has it a temple to the Egyptian goddess Isis once stood here. In 1956 Walt Disney visited the village and is said to have suggested turning one of its châteaux into a hotel, now one of the most famous on the coast.

Èze sits on the famous Corniches: three roads run along the coast from Nice to Monaco at different heights, each with its own views.

Tips for your trip

Two to three hours is enough for the village and garden. If you want to walk the path to the sea, allow half a day and go downhill, which is easier. Èze pairs well with Villefranche-sur-Mer or a coastal drive to Monaco.

Café and restaurant prices at the top are high; eat more cheaply in Nice or Èze-sur-Mer. Tour buses and cruise groups arrive by midday, so be here when the garden opens for a calmer visit.

Check the bus timetable: buses run less often in the evening, so find out the last bus to Nice in advance.

How to do it right

• Mornings are quieter.
• Comfortable shoes.
• Water and a hat in summer.
• Walk the path downhill.

Questions