Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Nice, France
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Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is a resort commune on a peninsula that juts into the sea between Villefranche-sur-Mer and Beaulieu-sur-Mer and ends at Cap Ferrat. In 2012 it was named the world's second most expensive place to live after Monaco, earning it the nickname 'billionaires' peninsula'.
It was once the fishing village of Saint-Jean. After Nice joined France in 1860 the peninsula drew kings and the wealthy, and in 1904 it became a commune in its own right. King Leopold II of Belgium built the Villa des Cèdres here and Baroness Béatrice de Rothschild a pink villa on the isthmus, and later Somerset Maugham, Charlie Chaplin, Jean Cocteau and other celebrities lived or holidayed here.
The great pleasure of Cap Ferrat is its coastal paths. They wind round the peninsula right by the water, rocky trails past cliffs, little coves and pines, with views of the sea, Villefranche, Beaulieu and the distant mountains. You can walk the loop round Cap Ferrat and its lighthouse or the short path round Pointe Saint-Hospice by the port.
The paths are free and open by day. They're narrow and rocky in places, with steps, so wear comfortable shoes. In storms and high winds some sections close for safety; check the signs at the trailheads.
The heart of the peninsula is the former fishing village of Saint-Jean, with a small port of boats and yachts and fish restaurants and cafés along the quay, a good place for lunch after a walk.
Five to ten minutes' walk from the port, at the foot of Pointe Saint-Hospice, lies Paloma beach, a sheltered cove beneath tall cliffs with clear water and mountain views. Part of it is free and part is taken by a beach restaurant with loungers. The water round Cap Ferrat is among the cleanest on the coast and great for snorkelling.
Most Cap Ferrat villas hide behind high walls and trees, but one is open to visitors: the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild on the isthmus, a pink Italianate palace with nine themed gardens and musical fountains, built in 1905–1912. It has its own page.
King Leopold II's former Villa des Cèdres now belongs to the family of the founder of Grand Marnier, and part of its grounds is the Les Cèdres botanical garden. A mild climate, around 9 °C in winter and 23 °C in summer, and lush greenery make the peninsula pleasant for walking almost all year.
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Cap Ferrat pairs well with the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild and a stroll in Villefranche or Beaulieu, all on one short stretch of coast. Allow half a day for the peninsula with the villa gardens and a walk on the path.
The port restaurants are pricey, like everything here, so bring water and a snack to save money. In summer Paloma beach fills up, so arrive early.
Buses on the peninsula are infrequent, so check the return timetable. Bikes and e-scooters are handy for getting between the port, the villa and the paths.
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Nice, France
Nice, France
By bus with a change in 30–40 minutes, or by train to Beaulieu and on foot.
The coastal paths, Saint-Jean port, Paloma beach and the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild.
About an hour round Pointe Saint-Hospice, two to three hours round all of Cap Ferrat.
Yes, best known is Paloma by the port, plus small coves along the path.
No, the paths and peninsula are free; the Villa Ephrussi is ticketed.
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Nice, France
Nice, France
Nice, France
Nice, France
Nice, France
Nice, France
Nice, France
Nice, France
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