Villefranche-sur-Mer, near Nice

About Villefranche-sur-Mer

Villefranche-sur-Mer is a resort town on the Riviera just east of Nice, on a deep natural bay between Nice and the Cap Ferrat peninsula. It was founded in 1295 by Charles II of Anjou, Count of Provence, who granted its people the tax privileges of a 'free port', hence the name 'free town'.

For the next four centuries it belonged to Savoy, and in 1860 it joined France together with Nice. In the 19th century royalty and the wealthy wintered here, and today Villefranche is one of the most picturesque and charming towns on the coast: a quiet harbour, colourful façades, fishing boats and yachts in the bay.

What to see

• The Chapel of Saint-Pierre — Jean Cocteau's murals of fishermen and the apostle.
• The old town — colourful houses, steps and narrow lanes.
• The Rue Obscure — a vaulted 13th-century passage under the houses.
• The Church of Saint-Michel — 18th-century Italian Baroque.
• The citadel — a 1557 fortress with museums and gardens.
• Marinières beach — a long beach at the head of the bay.

Cocteau's chapel and the old town

On the quay by the fishing harbour stands the little 16th-century Chapel of Saint-Pierre. For years fishermen stored their nets there, until in 1957 it was restored and the poet and artist Jean Cocteau covered its walls with scenes from the life of Saint Peter and of local fishermen. These bright, airy murals made the chapel one of the coast's highlights.

From the harbour the old town climbs uphill: houses in ochre, pink and yellow, steep lanes with steps and arches. At its heart is the Church of Saint-Michel, built in the 1750s in Italian Baroque style, with a large painting of Saint Michael and a wooden sculpture known as the 'Christ of the Galleys'.

The Rue Obscure and the citadel

One of the Riviera's most unusual streets is the Rue Obscure: a covered stone passage over a hundred metres long, cut right under the houses back in 1260. In the cool half-light beneath its vaults it's easy to picture medieval Villefranche.

Above the bay stands the citadel, built in 1557. Today its walls hold the town hall, a convention centre, three small museums and an open-air theatre, and its ramparts make a pleasant walk with harbour views. Next to it is the 17th-century La Darse harbour, built for the Duke of Savoy's galleys and now full of yachts.

The bay and beaches

Villefranche's bay is one of the deepest natural harbours in the Mediterranean, so large cruise ships call here and dozens of yachts anchor in summer. The water is calm and clear, good for swimming and snorkelling.

The main beach is Marinières, about 700 metres long at the head of the bay, beneath the railway from Nice to Italy: sand and fine pebbles, good with children. A smaller one, La Darse beach, lies behind the harbour jetty. Luxury villas hide in the hills above town, including the famous Villa Léopolda.

Tips for your trip

Two to three hours is enough for the town, half a day with the beach. Villefranche pairs well with Èze or a walk round the Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat peninsula, both close by on the same railway and bus route.

For lunch, try the fish restaurants on the quay by the Cocteau chapel, serving fresh fish and Mediterranean dishes at resort prices. Cafés in the old town are cheaper.

The old town's lanes are steep with steps in places; with a pushchair, stick to the quay and the beach.

Nearby and on the way

36

Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Nice, France

1 h 45 min · Villa and gardens ticket · 28 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

37

Beaulieu-sur-Mer

Nice, France

2 h 30 min · Free · 29 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Beaulieu-sur-Mer

How to do it right

• 10 minutes by train.
• Quieter mornings.
• Cocteau chapel by day.
• A beach for kids.

Questions