Saint-Paul-de-Vence, the artists' village, Nice

About Saint-Paul-de-Vence

Saint-Paul-de-Vence is a medieval hill town in the Alpes-Maritimes, inland between Nice and Vence. It is one of the oldest towns on the Riviera: houses of pale stone, tiled roofs and a bell tower rise above a ring of ramparts, surrounded by a valley of olives, cypresses and villas. Until 2011 the commune was officially just Saint-Paul.

The town owes its fame to artists. In the 20th century Marc Chagall lived here, Pablo Picasso and Jean-Paul Sartre stayed at the La Colombe d'Or inn, and in the 1960s Yves Montand, Simone Signoret and the poet Jacques Prévert came often. Today the main street is almost all galleries and studios, and one of France's finest modern art museums is next door.

What to see

• The main street — galleries, studios and fountains.
• The ramparts — a loop walk with views of the valley and sea.
• The Fondation Maeght — Miró, Chagall, Giacometti and Braque on the next hill.
• The Saint-Charles-Saint-Claude chapel — murals by Paul Conte from 2012–2013.
• The square by the entrance — locals playing pétanque under plane trees.
• The bell tower and church — at the top of the hill.

Walking the village

You enter through the old gate and straight onto the main street, narrow and cobbled, with fountains and stairways. Almost every door opens onto a gallery: painting, sculpture, ceramics, glass. Many artists work in their own studios and you can watch them at it.

Be sure to walk along the ramparts: the path circles the town and looks out over the whole valley, to the sea and Nice on a clear day. Duck into the side lanes, quieter than the main street, for flower-hung courtyards and tiny squares. On the big square outside the gate, locals play pétanque under the plane trees; watch a game from the terrace of the café next door.

The Fondation Maeght

The Fondation Maeght stands in woodland on the Gardettes hill, a 10–15-minute walk from the village. It was founded by the collectors and dealers Marguerite and Aimé Maeght and opened in 1964 by the culture minister André Malraux. The building, with its white arches and gardens, was designed by the Spanish architect Josep Lluís Sert.

The collection holds some 13,000 objects, paintings, sculpture, ceramics and collages by 20th-century artists: Miró, Chagall, Giacometti, Braque, Kandinsky, Léger, Bonnard and Calder. Many works stand outdoors in the garden and courtyards. The foundation is entirely private, with no state subsidy, and draws around 200,000 visitors a year.

The chapel and art in the village

In the village itself stands the small 17th-century Saint-Charles-Saint-Claude chapel. In 2012–2013 the French artist Paul Conte painted murals on its walls, giving the town another artistic sight.

Saint-Paul-de-Vence is called an artists' village not just for its past. The American writer James Baldwin lived here for 17 years, and today dozens of galleries are open, from classical painting to contemporary sculpture, many of them late into the evening in season.

Tips for your visit

Two or three hours is enough for the village, half a day with the Fondation Maeght. To see both without the crowds, start at the Maeght at opening and walk the village after lunch or towards evening.

Saint-Paul pairs well with neighbouring Vence or with Cagnes-sur-Mer, on the way from Nice. Eating out here is expensive, so bring water and a snack.

Summer is hot with little shade, so bring a hat. Steps and cobbles make it hard going with a pushchair; a baby carrier is easier.

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How to do it right

• Morning beats the groups.
• Wear good shoes.
• Maeght at opening.
• Stay for sunset.

Questions