Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Milan

A short history

The Galleria was built in 1865–1877 to designs by Giuseppe Mengoni and named after Victor Emmanuel II, first king of united Italy. It was a bold idea for its day: a street roofed in glass and iron, lined with shops, cafés and offices, linking the city's cathedral with its opera house.

Milanese took to it at once, calling it "Milan's drawing room" (il salotto di Milano) — a place for business meetings, coffee and arguments about La Scala premieres. It's often described as one of the world's oldest active shopping arcades, older than many famous department stores in Paris and London.

The dome and mosaics

The two wings cross in an octagon beneath a glass dome about 47 m high. Four large mosaics under it represent Europe, Asia, Africa and the Americas, and the floor carries the arms of Milan, Rome, Florence and Turin.

Turin's bull has its own fame: tradition says you put your heel on a particular spot and spin around three times to make sure you return to Milan. Millions of spins have worn a hollow in the floor, which has to be repaired now and then — and there's a queue even in the evening.

Cafés and shops

Fashion houses line the arcade — Prada opened its very first shop here in 1913 — alongside historic cafés and restaurants such as the Camparino bar by the cathedral entrance, linked to the Campari aperitivo, and Savini. Coffee costs more than in an ordinary bar; you're paying for the setting. Even without shopping, look up at the painted pediments, stucco and iron lamps, and come back at night when the dome is lit.

What to see

• The glass dome — at the centre of the octagon.
• Mosaics of four continents — beneath the dome.
• The lucky bull — Turin's arms in the floor.
• Camparino bar — by the cathedral exit, since 1915.
• The triumphal arch — the grand entrance from Piazza del Duomo.
• The Scala exit — at the far end of the arcade.

Is the Galleria worth it?

Yes — it's the loveliest walk in central Milan, and you'll pass through anyway on the way from the Duomo to La Scala and on to Brera. Come twice: by day for the light under the dome, at night for the illuminations. Before 9 am it's almost empty and there's no queue for the bull.

Walks in Milan: compare and choose

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Nearby and on the way

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La Scala

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How to do it right

• The bull is under the dome.
• Nearly empty early in the morning.
• Lit up beautifully at night.
• The rooftop walk is paid.

Questions