Basilica of Sant'Ambrogio, Milan

A short history

St Ambrose, bishop of Milan, founded the basilica in 379–386, when Milan was an imperial capital. One of the most influential men of his age, he is said to have baptised St Augustine here. The church took his name, and he became Milan's patron — locals are still called "Ambrosiani", and his feast on 7 December is the city's great holiday.

The present building dates from the 11th–12th centuries, when the old basilica was rebuilt in Romanesque style. It became the model of Lombard Romanesque for churches across northern Italy: warm red brick, heavy vaults, round arches and sober forms. In the nave a bronze serpent stands on a column, said to be a Byzantine emperor's gift of the early 11th century.

Atrium and bell towers

In front lies a large atrium, an arcaded courtyard once used by those awaiting baptism and now one of the calmest spots in central Milan. The façade above is a two-storey arcaded loggia, flanked by two bell towers: the squat 9th-century Monks' Tower on the right and the taller Canons' Tower of 1144 on the left, built by two communities who served the basilica.

On the square to the left stands an ancient column with two holes, the "Devil's Column": legend says Ambrose wrestled the devil here, and the devil, missing his lunge, drove his horns into the stone.

What to see inside

The treasure is the 9th-century golden altar by Vuolvinius, clad in gold and silver sheets with enamels and gems, its sides showing scenes from the lives of Christ and St Ambrose. Above it rises a 10th-century stone ciborium on four columns, painted and decorated with stucco figures.

On the right, the small chapel of San Vittore in Ciel d'Oro — "in the golden sky" — has a dome covered in 5th-century gold mosaic and one of the oldest known images of St Ambrose; entry is by a small fee. In the nave, look for the carved 12th-century stone pulpit set above an ancient sarcophagus.

What to see

• The atrium — the arcaded courtyard before the entrance.
• Two bell towers — the Monks' (9th c.) and the Canons' (1144).
• Vuolvinius's golden altar — 9th century.
• The ciborium — a 10th-century stone canopy.
• San Vittore in Ciel d'Oro — 5th-century gold mosaics.
• The Devil's Column — on the square to the left.

Is Sant'Ambrogio worth it?

Yes — it's Milan's second church after the Duomo and the most ancient in spirit: after the white Gothic cathedral, its dark brick Romanesque hall feels like another world. Combine it with the Last Supper and Santa Maria delle Grazie, then walk to the Navigli for the evening. It's quiet inside, with few tourists, and the atrium makes a good place to rest.

Milan's churches: compare and choose

Churches and basilicas in Milan rated by YesGo. Click a column header to sort.

Nearby and on the way

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The Last Supper

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Pinacoteca Ambrosiana

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48

Sforza Castle

Milan, Italy

2 h · Courtyards free, museums paid · 17 min walk

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How to do it right

• Free entry.
• Closed at midday.
• Small fee for the mosaic chapel.
• Sant'Ambrogio metro is right there.

Questions