The Navigli canals, Milan

A short history

Milan has no river, so from the Middle Ages its people dug canals — the navigli — to link the city with the Ticino and Adda rivers and the lakes. The oldest and longest, the Naviglio Grande, was begun in the 12th century and runs some 50 km to the Ticino. Barges brought grain, salt, timber and Candoglia marble for Milan Cathedral, unloading right by the building site.

The system kept improving: Leonardo da Vinci, at the Sforza court, refined the locks that let barges climb changes in level. The Naviglio Pavese south to Pavia was finished in 1819. In the 20th century most central canals were filled in for roads, leaving the Naviglio Grande, the Naviglio Pavese and the Darsena harbour between them.

What to see

Start at the Darsena, the old city harbour restored by 2015, with wide quays, steps down to the water and a covered market. From here the two canals fan out. The Naviglio Grande is the prettiest stretch: low houses with flower-filled balconies, iron footbridges, artists' studios, bookshops and antique dealers.

On its left bank hides the Vicolo dei Lavandai, a tiny alley with stone troughs under a wooden canopy where women washed laundry in canal water until the mid-20th century. The Naviglio Pavese has bars, student cafés and quiet courtyards of old tenement houses with shared balconies.

Highlights

• Darsena — the old harbour, quays and market.
• Naviglio Grande — footbridges, flowers and studios.
• Vicolo dei Lavandai — stone washing troughs under a canopy.
• Naviglio Pavese — bars and hidden courtyards.
• San Cristoforo — a 14th–15th-century church by the canal.
• A boat trip — along the canals and the Darsena.

Market and boats

On the last Sunday of the month a big antiques fair usually stretches nearly two kilometres along the Naviglio Grande: furniture, vintage clothes, china, books and old postcards. It's crowded but full of character.

In the warmer months, boat trips leave the Darsena for about an hour on the water, telling how barges supplied the city; timetables are seasonal and tickets are sold at the jetty. A towpath runs along the Naviglio Grande far into the countryside — perfect by bike.

Are the Navigli worth it?

Yes — it's Milan's most atmospheric district and the best place to spend an evening after the museums. By day it's quiet enough to explore the bridges and lanes; by night it's lively and fun. With only a day in Milan, save the Navigli for sunset: Duomo, Galleria and La Scala by day, canals and dinner after dark.

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How to do it right

• Best at sunset.
• Antiques fair: last Sunday.
• Start at the Darsena.
• Porta Genova metro is close.

Questions