Cassis, gateway to the Calanques, Marseille

About Cassis

Cassis is a town on the Mediterranean east of Marseille, between the Calanques and Cap Canaille. Ligurians lived here six centuries before Christ, in the Middle Ages the town sheltered behind the walls of its hilltop castle, and from the 18th century it spread down to the harbour. That was when Cassis stone became famous, used to build the quays of Marseille, Alexandria, Algiers and Port Said.

Today Cassis lives from tourism and wine. The Provençal poet Frédéric Mistral gave the town its motto: 'Whoever has seen Paris but not Cassis has seen nothing'. Don't confuse the town with crème de cassis: that blackcurrant liqueur is from Burgundy, while Cassis wines are white and rosé.

What to see

• The harbour — pastel houses, boats and waterfront cafés.
• Calanques boat trip — Port-Miou, En-Vau and other coves.
• Cap Canaille — a 394 m cliff and the ridge road.
• Beaches — Grande Mer in the centre and cool-water Bestouan.
• Vineyards — Cassis white wine and tastings.
• The hilltop castle — a silhouette above the harbour.

The harbour and old town

The heart of Cassis is its small harbour, ringed by pastel houses. Fishing boats and yachts lie at the quays, and the waterfront is lined with cafés and restaurants serving fish and seafood. In the morning the day's catch is sold by the boats, and in the evening the quayside becomes the place to stroll.

Behind the harbour are the narrow lanes of the old town, with shops, galleries and little squares. On the rock above stands the Château de Cassis, a medieval fortress, now private, but its silhouette is visible from everywhere.

Cap Canaille and the Route des Crêtes

Between Cassis and La Ciotat rises Cap Canaille, 394 metres above the sea, one of Europe's highest sea cliffs. Its red-ochre layers are visible from the harbour, and sailors have steered by it for centuries.

Along the ridge runs the panoramic Route des Crêtes: its viewpoints look down on all of Cassis, the Calanques and the sea. You can drive it by car or taxi; it's closed on windy days and when fire risk is high.

Beaches and wine

In the centre is the pebbly Grande Mer beach, and next to it little Bestouan, where an underground spring keeps the water cooler. In summer the beaches fill up early, so many people head out to swim in the coves by boat or kayak.

The slopes around town are covered in vineyards. Cassis became one of France's first three appellations in 1936, and its white wine goes well with fish and bouillabaisse. Many wineries welcome visitors for tastings.

Tips for your visit

Allow half a day for Cassis with a boat trip, a full day with a hike to the coves. Arrive in the morning, as boats and beaches fill up quickly in season.

Cassis goes naturally with the Calanques, really one trip, and the Route des Crêtes leads on to La Ciotat.

The station is far from the centre, so check the bus to the harbour. The centre has cobbles and slopes, but the waterfront is flat and pushchair-friendly.

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How to do it right

• Take a morning boat.
• The station is far from the port.
• Check Calanques access in summer.
• The wine is white.

Questions