Cosquer Cave
Marseille, France
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The Cathedral of Notre-Dame-de-la-Major is Marseille's principal Catholic church and the archbishop's seat. Cathedrals have stood on this site since the 5th century. The present building's foundation stone was laid by Emperor Napoleon III in 1852, the first service was held in 1893, and it was completed in 1896 and made a minor basilica.
It was designed by the architects Léon Vaudoyer and Henri-Jacques Espérandieu, who also built Notre-Dame de la Garde on the hill. That's why the two look alike: bands of pale and green stone, domes and a Neo-Byzantine style. Locals simply call the cathedral La Major.
La Major is one of France's largest cathedrals: 142 metres long, covering 7,680 m², with room for up to three thousand people. The main dome rises to 70 metres, with several smaller domes around it and two towers on the façade.
Inside it's spacious and light: columns and walls of red and white marble, mosaic floors, painted vaults and the altar under the dome. Unlike Notre-Dame de la Garde, it draws fewer tourists, so you can sit quietly for a while.
The cathedral stands on a rise above the sea, looking over the port of La Joliette, the ferries and the islands. Below it runs a broad esplanade, a fine place for a sunset stroll.
A few minutes' walk away is MuCEM, the museum of the civilisations of Europe and the Mediterranean, and on the other side begin the lanes of Le Panier, Marseille's oldest quarter, with colourful houses and street art. From there it's an easy walk down to the Old Port.
La Major was built as Marseille was growing fast into France's leading Mediterranean port. The huge cathedral by the new docks was meant to greet ships and show off the city's wealth. Today its domes are one of Marseille's most recognisable silhouettes, especially from the sea.
It's a working church, with Mass, feast-day services and organ concerts. It has been protected as a historic monument since 1906.
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Half an hour is enough for the cathedral. A good route: the Old Port, the lanes of Le Panier, La Major, MuCEM and an evening walk along the sea.
The cathedral pairs easily with the Old Port, and for sunset head up to Notre-Dame de la Garde, whose terrace looks down on both churches.
Dress modestly and don't tour during services. The square and entrance are flat, easy with a pushchair.
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You are ready for the visit
Tram T2 to Joliette, or 10–15 minutes on foot from the Old Port.
Yes, entry is free.
La Major is the cathedral by the sea; Notre-Dame is the basilica on the hill.
About half an hour.
MuCEM, Le Panier and the Old Port.
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Marseille, France
Marseille, France
Marseille, France
Marseille, France
Marseille, France
Marseille, France
Marseille, France
Marseille, France
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