Notre-Dame de la Garde, Marseille

About Notre-Dame de la Garde

Notre-Dame de la Garde is a Catholic basilica on a limestone outcrop south of the Old Port, the highest point in Marseille. It's the city's emblem and its most visited sight. A first chapel to the Virgin was built here as early as 1214, while the present basilica took over forty years to build from 1853, to designs by the architect Henri-Jacques Espérandieu.

Locals call the basilica the 'Good Mother', la Bonne Mère, and see her as the protector of the city and its sailors. Above the 41-metre bell tower stands a gilded statue of the Madonna and Child, 11.2 metres tall, visible from almost anywhere in Marseille and far out to sea.

What to see

• The golden Madonna — the statue on the bell tower above the city.
• The upper church — mosaics on gold and striped marble.
• Model ships — sailors' gifts hanging from the vaults.
• Ex-votos — paintings and plaques of thanks.
• The crypt — the lower church carved into the rock.
• The terrace — a panorama of Marseille, the port and islands.

The upper church and mosaics

The basilica is two churches in one. The lower one, the Romanesque crypt, is carved straight into the rock. The upper church is Neo-Byzantine: outside you know it by its bands of pale and green stone, inside by columns of alternating red and white marble and 1,200 m² of mosaics on a gold ground.

The basilica was restored in 2001–2008: the mosaics were cleaned of candle soot, and new tesserae were ordered from the same Venice workshop that made the originals. The vaults shine again, especially on a sunny day.

The view from the terrace

The terrace around the basilica has the best view of Marseille: the Old Port with its yachts, the rooftops, the cathedral by the sea, the island of the Château d'If and the Frioul islands, and beyond the city the mountains and the coves of the Calanques. It's a fine spot for sunset, when the sun drops into the sea right behind the islands.

Be aware that a strong wind, the mistral, often blows at the top. On those days hold on to your hat and sunglasses, though the view on a clear day after the mistral reaches especially far.

Feast days and pilgrimage

The basilica is the site of a great pilgrimage on 15 August, the Feast of the Assumption: a procession climbs the hill and the service draws thousands. On ordinary days Mass is said here, so keep quiet and don't take photos during services.

For the people of Marseille the 'Good Mother' is more than a church: her image is on souvenirs, T-shirts and shop names all over the city. Locals bring visitors up here to show them Marseille from above.

Tips for your visit

An hour covers the basilica and terrace. It's easiest to ride up by bus and walk down, through quiet streets to the Old Port and the Abbey of Saint-Victor.

The basilica pairs naturally with a trip to the Château d'If: see the island from above first, then catch the boat from the Old Port.

Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered. The basilica has a small café and shop. There's little shade on the terrace, so bring water and a hat in summer.

Nearby and on the way

42

Old Port

Marseille, France

1 h 30 min · Free · 21 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Old Port

37

Cosquer Cave

Marseille, France

1 h 45 min · Timed ticket · 30 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Cosquer Cave

44

Marseille Cathedral

Marseille, France

40 min · Free · 32 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Marseille Cathedral

How to do it right

• Bus 60 up.
• Walk down.
• Cover shoulders and knees.
• Sunset from the terrace.

Questions