Frioul islands, Marseille

About the Frioul islands

The Frioul archipelago is four islands at the mouth of the Bay of Marseille: Ratonneau, Pomègues, the Île d'If with its famous castle and tiny Tiboulen. Together they cover about 200 hectares and count as one of Marseille's districts. The name comes from the Provençal word 'friou', a strait between two islands.

In 1822 Ratonneau and Pomègues were joined by the Berry dyke, turning a sheltered anchorage used since Roman times into a proper harbour. Today it has a boat quay, yachts, a few cafés and a small settlement. Since 2012 the islands' land has been in the core of Calanques National Park.

What to see

• Frioul harbour — by the dyke, with cafés and yachts.
• Ratonneau's coves — clear water for swimming.
• Clifftop paths — white rocks and views of Marseille.
• Hôpital Caroline — a 19th-century building on the hill.
• The Île d'If — Monte Cristo's castle next door.
• Seabirds — gull colonies on the cliffs.

Coves and beaches

The main reason to come is swimming. Around Ratonneau and Pomègues are dozens of little coves with pebble beaches and flat rocks to slip into the water from. The water is noticeably clearer than at the city beaches, so you can see the bottom and the fish; bring a mask.

The coves nearest the harbour fill first, so it's worth walking 15–30 minutes along the path, as the far corners are almost empty even in summer. There's hardly any sand and little shade, so bring a mat, a parasol or a hat.

Walks and nature

Paths run above the sea across the islands: from the white limestone cliffs you can see Marseille, Notre-Dame de la Garde, the Château d'If and the open sea. Ratonneau is 2.5 kilometres long, easy to walk round in a couple of hours.

The islands are a refuge for seabirds: thousands of yellow-legged gulls nest on the cliffs, along with some rare species. Typical plants of the Provençal coast grow here, many of them protected. Stay on the paths and keep away from nests in spring.

Hôpital Caroline

On the hill of Ratonneau stands a large colonnaded building, the former Hôpital Caroline, built in 1823–1828 by the architect Michel-Robert Penchaud. Travellers arriving in Marseille were sent here for quarantine when ports feared epidemics.

Today the hospital has been partly restored by city and community groups, and its courtyard has hosted summer concerts and cultural events. The building has one of the best views over the islands and the harbour.

The harbour and village

A small Frioul village has grown up by the Berry dyke: a few homes, a marina, and cafés and restaurants with terraces over the water. You can have fish for lunch or just a coffee watching the boats, but the choice is small, and many places close out of season.

From the harbour you can see how the archipelago fits together: Ratonneau with the hospital on its hill on one side, long and almost deserted Pomègues on the other, and the dyke between them that you can walk across from one island to the other. Pomègues has fewer people and wilder coves, so many head there.

Tips for your visit

Allow half a day for Frioul, up to a full day with swimming and walking. A morning boat lets you claim the best cove and get back before the worst of the heat.

The islands pair naturally with the Château d'If on one ticket and a stroll round the Old Port when you return.

With small children, the coves near the harbour are easiest. The paths are rocky, so wear closed shoes; it's hard going with a pushchair. Take your rubbish home.

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Nearby and on the way

48

Château d'If

Marseille, France

2 h 30 min · Castle ticket + boat · 27 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Château d'If

How to do it right

• Take a morning boat.
• Combine with If.
• Bring water and food.
• Pack a mask.

Questions