Martigues, the Venice of Provence, Marseille

About Martigues

Martigues stands on the Caronte canal, which links the Mediterranean with the huge saltwater lagoon of the Étang de Berre. The town was founded in 1232 by the Count of Provence, Ramon Berenguer IV, who joined several fishing settlements. People lived here far earlier: remains of the village of Tamaris, from the 7th–6th centuries BC, one of the oldest in southern France, have been found on the coast.

Martigues has three districts: Ferrières to the north, L'Île, the island amid the canals, and Jonquières to the south, where the Côte Bleue and its beaches begin. The canals, quays, boats and bridges gave the town its nickname, 'the Venice of Provence'.

What to see

• Miroir aux Oiseaux — a quay of boats and pastel houses.
• L'Île — the island between the canals.
• The Madeleine church — Baroque, with a painted ceiling.
• Canal Saint-Sébastien — the Chapeau de Gendarme house.
• Musée Ziem — paintings of Provence.
• The Côte Bleue — Verdon and Sainte-Croix beaches.

L'Île and the Miroir aux Oiseaux

The loveliest part of town is L'Île, the island between the canals. Narrow lanes lead down to the water, colourful fishing boats bob at the quays and pastel houses are mirrored in the canal. The best-known quay is the Miroir aux Oiseaux, the 'Mirror of Birds', a quiet corner loved by photographers and painters.

Here too is the Baroque Madeleine church of 1681–1688: inside are paintings on the walls and wood panelling, an unusual flat painted wooden ceiling and a 19th-century organ. Old houses line the Canal Saint-Sébastien, among them the Chapeau de Gendarme, the 'Gendarme's Hat'.

A town of painters

Martigues' soft light and canals drew painters: Félix Ziem, André Derain, Raoul Dufy and Auguste Renoir all worked here. The town's Musée Félix Ziem shows his views of Martigues and Venice, alongside work by other Provençal painters and archaeological finds.

Filmmakers love Martigues too: its canals, pinewoods and beaches often appear in French films and TV series. Over the Caronte canal stands the steel arch of the early-20th-century Caronte swing bridge, whose span pivots to let ships through.

Côte Bleue beaches

South of town begins the Côte Bleue, a rocky coast of coves and beaches between Martigues and Marseille. The nearest are Verdon and Sainte-Croix, with sand and clear water, and further on lie the fishing villages of La Couronne and Carro with their small harbours.

The commune has 40 kilometres of shoreline in all, 11 of them on the Mediterranean and the rest on the lagoon. The beaches are busy in summer, so arrive early; Carro and La Couronne are calmer, and Carro harbour sells fresh fish in the mornings.

Tips for your visit

Half a day is enough for Martigues: a walk round L'Île, the Madeleine church and the quays. With a beach, make it a full day. The station is outside the centre, so take a bus from there.

Martigues combines easily with Aix-en-Provence by car, or with a drive along the Côte Bleue. The harbour and quays are full of fish restaurants: try the local catch and mussels.

The centre is flat and the quays are easy with a pushchair. Bring a hat in summer, as there's little shade by the water.

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How to do it right

• Reflections at dawn and dusk.
• L'Île is the highlight.
• Beaches on the Côte Bleue.
• The station is out of town.

Questions