Santo Spirito
Florence, Italy
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The chapel in the Carmelite church of Santa Maria del Carmine was commissioned by the wealthy merchant and diplomat Felice Brancacci. Around 1424 two painters began work: the experienced Masolino and his young colleague Masaccio, barely into his twenties. The subject was the life of St Peter.
A few years later work stopped: Masolino left, Masaccio went to Rome, and Brancacci himself soon fell out with the Medici and was banished from the city. The chapel stood unfinished for more than half a century until Filippino Lippi, son of the painter Filippo Lippi, completed it in the 1480s, so carefully that his parts aren't easy to tell from his predecessors'.
In 1771 a fire badly damaged the Carmine church, but the chapel survived. The frescoes were darkened by soot, and only a major restoration in the 1980s revealed their true bright colours. Today it's one of the most important monuments of early Renaissance painting, sometimes called the Sistine Chapel of the early Renaissance.
Before Masaccio, figures in frescoes looked flat and weightless. He was the first to paint people as solid and heavy, with shadows cast from a single light source, as if light were falling from the chapel's real window. His figures stand firmly on the ground, and the landscape and buildings recede according to the rules of perspective.
The most famous scene is the Expulsion from the Garden of Eden: Adam covers his face with his hands, Eve cries out in grief, and there's more raw feeling in them than Italian painting had ever shown. Next to it is the Tribute Money, with the apostles standing in a semicircle around Christ while Peter, in three episodes within one picture, finds a coin in a fish and pays the tax collector.
Later generations of artists came here to learn. Fra Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Botticelli and then Michelangelo all copied Masaccio's figures; the young Michelangelo's drawings show how closely he studied them.
The chapel is in the Oltrarno, the district beyond the Arno on the south bank. It's a neighbourhood of artisans, workshops, small trattorias and quiet squares, with far fewer tourists than around the cathedral. The church of Santa Maria del Carmine is plain outside, with an unfinished front, and bright inside, redecorated in 18th-century Baroque after the fire.
Nearby, look into the basilica of Santo Spirito, Brunelleschi's last church, whose square fills with locals in the evening. Palazzo Pitti and the Boboli Gardens are also close, so the chapel slots easily into a day on the south bank.
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The chapel is small and the frescoes run in two tiers, so take time over the upper scenes, where Masaccio's key works are. A short film on the history of the paintings is usually shown before you go in; it helps you see who painted which part.
Photos without flash are usually allowed. Mornings are best, followed by lunch in an Oltrarno trattoria. Children won't know much about Masaccio, but they tend to like the scene where Peter finds a coin in a fish's mouth, so tell them the story before you go in.
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Churches and basilicas in Florence rated by YesGo. Click a column header to sort.
| Florence Cathedral | 60 | 2 h | Free | 20 min walk |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Santa Croce | 50 | 1 h | Paid | 26 min walk |
| Santa Maria Novella | 48 | 1 h | Paid | 14 min walk |
| Florence Baptistery | 48 | 30 min | Combined cathedral pass | 18 min walk |
| Basilica of San Lorenzo | 46 | 45 min | Paid | 19 min walk |
| Orsanmichele | 45 | 30 min | Free | 16 min walk |
| Santo Spirito | 44 | 40 min | Free | 6 min walk |
| Medici Chapels | 43 | 1 h | Paid | 18 min walk |
| San Miniato al Monte | 43 | 45 min | Free | 34 min walk |
| Brancacci Chapelyou are here | 41 | 30 min | Paid, timed entry | — |
| Giotto's Campanile | 41 | 1 h | Combined cathedral pass | 18 min walk |
The Brancacci Chapel and Santo Spirito, then Palazzo Pitti and the Boboli Gardens.
4 places · about 5 h 14 min with walks · 19 min on foot in total
Florence, Italy
Florence, Italy
Florence, Italy
Florence, Italy
Masaccio and Masolino's frescoes of the 1420s, which launched Renaissance painting, above all the Expulsion from Eden and the Tribute Money.
In the church of Santa Maria del Carmine in the Oltrarno, south of the Arno; the entrance is to the right of the church front.
Yes, ideally in advance: visits are in small timed groups.
Masolino and Masaccio around 1424–1427; Filippino Lippi finished it in the 1480s.
About 30 minutes including the short film.
Your vote counts towards the YesGo score.
Florence, Italy
Florence, Italy
Florence, Italy
Florence, Italy
Florence, Italy
Florence, Italy
Florence, Italy
Florence, Italy
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