Laurentian Library
Florence, Italy
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A church on this site was consecrated as early as 393, and for about three centuries it served as the city's cathedral, which makes San Lorenzo one of the oldest churches in Florence. The present building was begun in 1419 to designs by Filippo Brunelleschi, paid for by the banker Giovanni di Bicci de' Medici and his neighbours.
The Medici lived around the corner in Palazzo Medici Riccardi, and San Lorenzo became their parish church. Generation after generation they hired the best artists of the day here, from Brunelleschi and Donatello to Michelangelo, until a whole complex had grown up around the basilica, with a cloister, a library and lavish chapels.
The surprise is the front. It's still bare, rough stone. In 1518 Pope Leo X, himself a Medici, asked Michelangelo to clad it; he produced a design and a wooden model, but work never started. The model is in the Casa Buonarroti museum, and on Piazza San Lorenzo you see the undressed wall, which has a beauty of its own.
The interior is one of the first pieces of true Renaissance architecture. Brunelleschi laid it out in clear proportions: grey pietra serena columns, white walls, round arches and a flat coffered ceiling. After the dim Gothic churches, this calm, light space struck people as a revelation.
In the nave stand Donatello's two bronze pulpits, with reliefs of the life of Christ, the great sculptor's last works and full of movement and feeling. One side chapel has Filippo Lippi's Annunciation, with lovely perspective; another holds Rosso Fiorentino's Marriage of the Virgin, striking for its unusual colours.
Left of the altar is the Old Sacristy, built by Brunelleschi in 1421–1440: a small cube of a room under a dome, worked out like a geometry problem. Donatello did the decoration, with coloured roundels, bronze doors and reliefs. It's one of the first complete Renaissance interiors anywhere.
To the left of the church is a quiet arcaded cloister with an orange tree in the middle, one of the calmest spots in a busy neighbourhood. From here stairs lead up to the Laurentian Library, designed for the Medici by Michelangelo; its vestibule, with an astonishing stone staircase, is counted among the boldest architectural ideas of the 16th century.
Behind the altar, but with their own entrance, are the Medici Chapels: the vast, multicoloured marble Chapel of the Princes and Michelangelo's New Sacristy with his famous figures of Dawn, Dusk, Day and Night. See them the same day; together with the basilica they tell nearly the whole story of Medici taste.
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The streets around the basilica are taken over by the San Lorenzo market: rows of stalls selling leather jackets, bags, belts, scarves and souvenirs. Haggling is normal and quality varies a lot, so look carefully. A couple of minutes away is the covered Mercato Centrale: fresh food downstairs, a food hall upstairs with pasta, pizza and Florence's famous lampredotto sandwiches.
Visit the basilica in the morning before the big groups, then have lunch at the Mercato Centrale. On Sunday mornings there are services and visitors are let in only in the afternoon. Dress as for any working church, with shoulders and knees covered. Photos without flash are usually allowed.
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Churches and basilicas in Florence rated by YesGo. Click a column header to sort.
| Florence Cathedral | 60 | 2 h | Free | 6 min walk |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Santa Croce | 50 | 1 h | Paid | 18 min walk |
| Santa Maria Novella | 48 | 1 h | Paid | 6 min walk |
| Florence Baptistery | 48 | 30 min | Combined cathedral pass | 4 min walk |
| Basilica of San Lorenzoyou are here | 46 | 45 min | Paid | — |
| Orsanmichele | 45 | 30 min | Free | 8 min walk |
| Santo Spirito | 44 | 40 min | Free | 17 min walk |
| Medici Chapels | 43 | 1 h | Paid | 3 min walk |
| San Miniato al Monte | 43 | 45 min | Free | 34 min walk |
| Brancacci Chapel | 41 | 30 min | Paid, timed entry | 19 min walk |
| Giotto's Campanile | 41 | 1 h | Combined cathedral pass | 5 min walk |
The Basilica of San Lorenzo, the Laurentian Library and the Medici Chapels, then Palazzo Medici Riccardi.
4 places · about 3 h 25 min with walks · 10 min on foot in total
Florence, Italy
Florence, Italy
Florence, Italy
Florence, Italy
Brunelleschi's nave, Donatello's bronze pulpits, the Old Sacristy, Filippo Lippi's Annunciation and the cloister with the stairs to the Laurentian Library.
Michelangelo was commissioned to clad it in 1518, but work never began; only his wooden model survives.
No, they are a separate museum with their own entrance and ticket.
Entry is paid; check the current price at the door or on the basilica's official site.
40 to 45 minutes including the Old Sacristy and cloister.
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Florence, Italy
Florence, Italy
Florence, Italy
Florence, Italy
Florence, Italy
Florence, Italy
Florence, Italy
Florence, Italy
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