Piazza Navona, Rome

Piazza Navona history

The square's long shape, rounded at the north end, comes straight from the Stadium of Domitian, built in the 1st century for athletic games. Its stands held about 30,000 people, and the houses around the piazza sit on their foundations. The name probably evolved from *in agone*, 'at the games'.

Its present look dates from the 17th century, when Pope Innocent X of the Pamphilj family made it the forecourt of his palace and hired the two giants of Roman Baroque, Bernini and Borromini. Until the 19th century the square was flooded in summer for festive 'lake' days.

The Fountain of the Four Rivers

Bernini's centrepiece was finished in 1651. Four giants on a rocky outcrop stand for the great rivers of the four known continents: the Nile (Africa, head covered because its source was unknown), the Ganges (Asia), the Danube (Europe) and the Río de la Plata (the Americas). An Egyptian-style obelisk, brought from the Circus of Maxentius on the Appian Way, rises from the rock.

A popular story says the Río de la Plata raises his arm against Borromini's church façade, fearing his rival's work would collapse. It's a nice tale but untrue: the fountain was finished before the façade.

What to see on Piazza Navona

• Fountain of the Four Rivers — the rock, the four river gods, a lion, a horse and the obelisk.
• Fountain of Neptune — at the north end, Neptune wrestling an octopus (19th-century figures).
• Fontana del Moro — at the south end, carved to Bernini's design.
• Sant'Agnese in Agone — Borromini's concave façade; free to enter.
• Palazzo Pamphilj — Innocent X's palace, now the Brazilian Embassy.
• Stadium of Domitian — the underground museum near the north end.
• Palazzo Braschi — the Museum of Rome, at the southern end.

The stadium underground

About 4.5 metres below the north end of the square, the Stadium of Domitian museum lets you walk among the original arches and stands, with sculpture fragments and a model of the stadium. The entrance is on Piazza di Tor Sanguigna; it's ticketed, so check current prices and hours on the museum's site. Allow 30–40 minutes — and expect a fraction of the crowds above.

Christmas market and the Befana

From early December to 6 January, Rome's oldest Christmas market fills the piazza with ornaments, sweets, a carousel and nativity figures. It ends with the feast of the Befana, the kindly witch who brings children presents on the night of 5 January. Evenings in these weeks are very busy.

Piazza Navona at night

Mornings are quiet: cafés opening, cleaners washing the cobbles, the fountains to yourself. After dark the square comes alive with street artists, musicians and floodlit fountains and domes. A good plan is to stroll through after dinner and come back for ten minutes of photos in the morning.

Is Piazza Navona worth it?

Yes — it's the most beautiful square in central Rome and an open-air gallery of Baroque sculpture, free at any hour. It sits between the Pantheon and Campo de' Fiori, so you'll pass through anyway; come back in the evening.

Rome's fountains and squares: compare and choose

Places in Rome with fountains and water, rated by YesGo. Click a column header to sort.

Nearby and on the way

47

San Luigi dei Francesi

Rome, Italy

20 min · Free · 3 min walk

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82

Pantheon

Rome, Italy

30 min · ≈ €5 · 5 min walk

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47

Campo de' Fiori

Rome, Italy

30 min · Free · 6 min walk

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51

Santa Maria sopra Minerva

Rome, Italy

30 min · Free · 8 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Santa Maria sopra Minerva

How to do it right

• The Nile's head is covered — its source was unknown.
• Coffee at a bar one street away costs a fraction of the piazza price.
• Evenings bring lights and music.
• The stadium below is almost empty of visitors.

Questions