Piazza del Popolo, Rome

Caravaggio and Raphael in Santa Maria del Popolo

By the gate stands Santa Maria del Popolo, plain outside but one of Rome's richest churches for art — and free to enter. In the Cerasi Chapel, left of the altar, hang two Caravaggios: the *Conversion of St Paul*, with its huge horse and blinding light, and the *Crucifixion of St Peter*.

The Chigi Chapel was designed by Raphael for the banker Agostino Chigi, with a mosaic dome of the planets, pyramid tombs and statues of prophets, two later carved by Bernini. There are frescoes by Pinturicchio too. The paintings are lit by coin-operated lamps, so carry change, and visitors are asked not to wander during Mass.

A short history

The square lies inside the Porta del Popolo, the northern gate in the Aurelian Walls where the ancient Via Flaminia entered Rome. For centuries this was the first sight of the city for pilgrims, artists and royalty arriving from the north. 'Popolo' may come from the poplar trees (*populus*) that once grew here, or from the 'people' who funded the church by the gate.

In 1589 Domenico Fontana raised the obelisk in the centre, and in the 17th century the twin churches rose opposite. The present look — an oval with fountains, curved walls and a ramp up to the Pincio — is the work of Giuseppe Valadier, in 1811–1822.

The obelisk and fountains

The Flaminio obelisk was carved under Ramesses II for a temple at Heliopolis. In 10 BC Augustus brought it to Rome for the Circus Maximus. It's about 24 metres tall, around 36 with its base — Rome's second-tallest after the Lateran obelisk. Four 19th-century lion fountains spout water at its foot, and the curved sides of the square hold fountains of Neptune and of Roma with the she-wolf, the latter beneath the Pincio.

The twin churches and the 'trident'

Facing the gate, two near-identical domed churches — Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria in Montesanto — were built in 1660–1679 by Carlo Rainaldi, with input from Bernini and Carlo Fontana. Their plots are different widths, so one dome is round and the other oval, but from the square they look identical.

Between and beside them fan out three streets Romans call the 'trident': Via del Corso to Piazza Venezia in the middle, Via del Babuino to the Spanish Steps on the left and Via di Ripetta to the Ara Pacis on the right.

What to see on Piazza del Popolo

• Flaminio obelisk — in the centre, with lion fountains.
• Twin churches — at the head of the Corso, Babuino and Ripetta.
• Santa Maria del Popolo — Caravaggio, Raphael's Chigi Chapel, Pinturicchio frescoes.
• Porta del Popolo — the gate, its inner face decorated by Bernini for Queen Christina of Sweden.
• Neptune and Roma fountains — in the curved sides of the square.
• Pincio stairs and terrace — above the east side, the best view of the square.

Is Piazza del Popolo worth it?

Yes — it's one of Rome's grandest squares, and the free Caravaggios in Santa Maria del Popolo are among the best bargains in the city. Pair it with a stroll through Villa Borghese and the Pincio, or walk down the Corso into the centre. The church closes for a lunch break, so plan for morning or late afternoon.

Rome's squares and streets: compare and choose

Squares and walking spots in Rome rated by YesGo. Click a column header to sort.

Nearby and on the way

43

Pincio

Rome, Italy

40 min · Free · 5 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Pincio

47

Ara Pacis

Rome, Italy

1 h · ≈ €13–15 · 8 min walk

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53

Mausoleum of Augustus

Rome, Italy

45 min · ≈ €5, booking · 9 min walk

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43

Via del Corso

Rome, Italy

1 h · Free · 9 min walk

Yes — add to my route: Via del Corso

How to do it right

• The Caravaggios in Santa Maria del Popolo are free.
• Carry coins for the painting lights.
• The best view is from the Pincio.
• Flaminio metro is 3 minutes away.

Questions