Santa Maria in Trastevere, Rome

The mosaics

The treasure here is the 12th-century apse mosaic on a gold ground: Christ and Mary enthroned side by side, flanked by saints and Pope Innocent II holding a model of the church. Above is the starry heaven with the evangelists' symbols; below, lambs process from Bethlehem and Jerusalem.

Beneath, between the windows, are six panels by Pietro Cavallini from 1291, showing scenes from the Life of the Virgin — her birth, the Annunciation, the Nativity, the Adoration of the Magi, the Presentation and the Dormition. Cavallini worked before Giotto, and his figures already have weight and life: you can see Byzantine tradition turning into Renaissance painting.

There's mosaic on the façade too — the Madonna and Child with ten women carrying lamps — best seen from the square in the evening, when it's floodlit.

A short history

Santa Maria in Trastevere is counted among Rome's oldest churches. Tradition says Christians met here in the 3rd century under Pope Callixtus, and in the 4th century Pope Julius I built the first basilica — one of the first in the city dedicated to the Virgin.

The present building went up in 1140–1143 under Pope Innocent II, of the local Papareschi family. Its builders reused 22 granite columns with mismatched capitals from ancient monuments, some said to come from the Baths of Caracalla. The 12th-century Romanesque bell tower, with a tiny mosaic image near the top, is a landmark of the district.

What to see

• Apse mosaic — Christ and Mary enthroned, 12th century.
• Cavallini mosaics — six scenes from the Life of the Virgin, 1291.
• Façade mosaic — the Madonna with ten lamp-bearing women.
• Portico — walls lined with ancient and early Christian inscriptions.
• Cosmatesque floor — geometric patterns in coloured marble.
• Coffered ceiling — 17th century, with Domenichino's Assumption.
• Fountain on the square — one of Rome's oldest, remodelled by Carlo Fontana.

Opening hours and the square

The basilica is usually open from about 7:30 to 21:00 and entry is free. In the evening the Sant'Egidio community holds prayers here — beautiful to hear, but visitors are asked not to walk around. The piazza outside, with its octagonal fountain, is the heart of Trastevere: children play by day, and at night the fountain steps fill up and the cafés with diners.

Is it worth visiting?

Yes — it's one of Rome's most beautiful churches and an essential stop in Trastevere. It's free, and the 12th-century gold mosaics and Cavallini's panels are of a quality rare even in Rome. Come in daylight for the mosaics, and pair it with a wander through the neighbourhood and dinner.

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How to do it right

• See the apse mosaics in daylight.
• The Cavallini panels are high — bring binoculars.
• The façade mosaic is floodlit at night.
• The square's fountain is one of Rome's oldest.

Questions